2009/10/28

Powerpass

Session at KV today...lots of people again, warming up with S, doing some blue,red and one easy black problem. Then searching for some white problems.. found 3 nice looking ones and got to work. Problem 1.. long moves and small crimps, fun..hard, but could be possible. Problem 2.. looked possible at least 1/2 way and S made it look easy up to there..didn't seem to suit me..found every move hard. Problem 3 not my style either, overhanging, 5 moves, hard, full crimp and body tension..PG thought it was a good problem, then again it suits him and he ain't weak...fun!!
Little finger didn't seem to like the crimping too much though :-D

2009/10/25

Tired

Of to KC with a plan.. that I in the end didn´t go through with for several reasons. I was a bit apprehensive over my right hand fingers and how they felt so I took it rather easy on that side, a less pure power orientated session. Typical B warm up... hahahah.. then worked on some white problems. Had a few tries on a red (white) that felt rather fun and then got stuck on a black(white) with fun moves.. hard but fun! Finished off with some Footless bouldering. Taped my little and middlefinger and didn´t feel too bad. .. even afterwardsfelt ok.. we shall see next time :-D

2009/10/22

Tired and Hurt

Already felt tired warming up, no good 5 hours of sleep and lots of stress didn't help I guess + think I still feel the last session. This time at K again.. lots of people and alone which only helped me sticking to the rest time for the 1st time! Noticed early that there was something wrong/strange with my little finger (must have injured it somehow last time) :-( and in middle I managed to overstretch my right pec muscle as well..
Due to the situation at hand only tried 2 of the white problems from last time. Made the 1st move on one after some tries but could not repeat it. On the other I came closer to the 1st move and now could do the 2nd move.
Rest now and see how the finger feels next time.

2009/10/20

Fun

Interesting session at K with T. Longer warm up and then 3 white problems to try with ca. 3/4 tries each, rested. Went totally ok I think, a bit sour on one of my 3 as I seem to have read it totally wrong, but that is ok. Even the new shoes were more to my liking again... (maybe they only feel good at K??). Over and out.

2009/10/18

Better

At KC today and only new problems to try out :-D... ended up with trying all the black problems, again some felt easy some very hard for the color. Felt better then I thought it would be, having muscle ache like hell in my arms, stomach and back.... Lot of moves done (too many?)..ended up with doing two black problems (the easiest ones) close on some more.. Fun session! :-D

2009/10/14

- 1/2 suck -

ok..1:st impression at KV was -WOHA- lots of people, felt limited. The warm up was ok and the goal to do all red.. but not a lot red problems and not a lot of new red problems none that felt really fun either. Ditched my plan and tried the new black problems instead..I guess I should't have done that. Felt heavy and weak in arms, fingers and stomach.. this time had the will though and actually felt more at home with my new shoes which is a big plus (not sure though if C gave me a 1/2 size smaller..)
Well well... guess either start with short BM sesions or/and a rest (again) until Sunday?

2009/10/11

-suck-

Not much to say.. new shoes (none sticky rubber), no power, no will...

2009/10/08

Fun again

Today it was KC´s turn again. Felt a bit so-so due to a short night and scare as my daughter had a bit of an accident.. not to worry everything seems fine. So no Kindergarten for her today..
Felt ok in the start.. a little lack of power and concentration though. Worked on some new black and white problems.. and to my surprise must say that the blue(white) problem we worked on was the best we tested today in my books and that even though its slopers and pinches (something I don´t really go for...) but one should train ones weaknesses right???! Fun..
Felt a little too hurried again.. need to step down the tempo and just work a few problems at the time and NOT try everything ..
Peace :-D

2009/10/06

Better?

Started off the day with a morning session on the BM with some weights..went so-so.
Then finished off the day at K..slow start, but got into it and ended up doing 6 black problems and was close on 3 more. Felt much better than last time I was there, maybe due to me actually being able to place my Apache's better. However feels that there is some discrepancy between black and black and compared to KV maybe most on the easier side? But also here it feels that the white problems harder than the black ones by far...

2009/10/03

Pics of the Day




Tested a new Effect on these.. so-so result

Knarkarkvarten

Perfect Weather today! Good friction at the rock, then again it´s Orhem so the rock has a lot of friction (in respect to nice cristals...). Cool gang out that never had been there. Warmed up with "All I need" which felt ok. Then over to "Natterbjudande" which had a bit of scary top out and I think only S did it in the end. "Kalsongfjong" was up next.. don´t know where the grade came from but we thought is was not harder than "Natterbjudande" (even easier?) Had a few goes at "Karate Kid" got down to the first 2 moves being the crux.. the rest was not that hard. Think the first move is possible.. but felt the clear crux for me was the second move. Even tried the "un-named" left corner..but either we had no power left or couldn't read it too well but it felt hard for the grade...
All in all a nice day out in the woods :-D

Pics will follow...