2010/04/30

Chironico Pix 2

Adam on "Made in Norway"


Matteo sending "Made in Norway"


Tomas checking Warm Up


Mountains


Plane


For Easter we got Home Made Goat Cheese & Bread


Slab Meister Tomas...


Tomas on Warm Up..


Town with a View


Sheep


Tomas on a 6B


Local Housing


Goats


Tomas sending "Globetrotter"



Chironico Pix




More are on the way..

2010/04/29

no....No....NO!

Discipline again..well, better then last session at least. Started off good, as planned, but then M turned up and got me interested in the more harder things. Good to see M fun as usual and have to admit missing training with him. Flashed a black problem and looked ok on a White slab problem..that was when I kind of realised that I had come way of track..then it was too late. Only to go home.. Rest 2 days now.

2010/04/27

Power or not


Had a plan and managed to stick to it for all of 20minutes before traversing off to harder things..not good. It was fun, sort off, but kept thinking of what I should be doing..when I finally put that thought back into my head it was of course too late...

2010/04/25

Balingsta



Snakefarm,Balingsta

Warmed up and then repeated "Ballista". Too many tries though....drew some blood. Then working on "Snakefarm"..do all moves but one,possible..more juice and core needed. Looked at "Mammoth" which looks doable if one can work out the high slab finish, also looked at "Devil"..didnt get the start but then looks hard and fun. Only downside is that it is pollen season which does not help the power.

2010/04/21

Back to training

again on plastic. After we planned to go to KV we ended up going to K2 as there was a fire alarm when we got there and nobody knew how long it would go on for. Well, 8 minutes later we were at K2. Did a nice short warm up and slowly proceeded into today goal of a moderate Session of 10-15 move problems. Actually managed to get pumped rather quick, but tried to push through anyway. Was a fun session and got to see all of the new Problems there as well.

2010/04/18

Nyckelviken

Went out with T and E for a quick session outdoors. This was the first after 1 week of resting since we came back. Felt ok... did a 6B,6C repeated a 6C without topout and tried some 7a´s.. Actually thought we did one but as it turns out just did the start of a 7b+ not knowing how to finish it correctly though (did the straight up version and the FA seems to be an eliminate trv.?) Well, waiting for the guy who did the FA to answer my questions.. but again better info and even pictures are wanted on Sverigeförarens page..they were there before but seems like they got taken away again...Anyway totally ok Day. Also need to remember to take pix as well...

2010/04/13

Back in Black

Well Well.. so one is back at home again. Shame really because the last days seemed rather good. T had a last go at "Bella Gnocca" /7b as I called it a day before we even set out. But being true to myself I did bring along some shoes and had a go at it as well... worked the crux moves and in the end came up with a solution that suited me and I am sure I could have done it that way. Sadly it didn´t work out for either T or me.. 3rd. day on and wrong shoes (needed a good heel) worked against us this time.. but both could have done it. Still thinking of "Made in Norway" another 7b that we looked at on Saturday.. really really liked that problem! Overhanging, Tall and Crimpy.. need to train hard now for next year.
Resting now for a week and maybe off to Åland on the Weekend.

2010/04/10

Casual Boulder



T on Casual Boulder, 6c/+

Both T & I feel the last days..should have rested 1 day more we feel. Plus that today felt much warmer,think even I managed to get burnt. Tried a nice 7a..doable but a tricky & shouldery move set stop to us setting the problem..not much gas left. Met some nice Italian guys, Lori from Totelore blog, that we had a fun time with. His friend sent "made in Norway",7b, rather quick and the problem looks super! Shame we just saw it today! Now food and maybe some more last bouldering tomorrow.

2010/04/09

Power is draining



Lascia che sia,7a

Another warm day at the crag. Started of with some nice goes on the 7a from monday, falling only to stupid misstakes. Made it on my last try... T got close to the extention of the problem a 7b, falling on the last move! Then got close on another 7a,just needed to hold the 1st move a bit longer. T did a morpho 6c+ soon after that. Afterwards we both felt like our power left us..2 rest days so far maybe not the optimal thing. We will see what we can muster tomorrow.

2010/04/08

Restday



T resting? Nope...working...

Warm day just like the rest of this week around 20 degrees = rather warm for climbing. Did some driving, watching planes,trains & automobiles...eating, more eating..now dinner and then sleep.

2010/04/07

Getting high



Selection Door, 7a

As mentioned yesterday, higher was the aim. Did this nice problem, which ended up being not that high, but mentally it felt way different.

Warmer today then yesterday..time for sunscreen! Tried more stuff, but felt powerless...time for a restday!

Supposed to rain tomorrow, we will see.

2010/04/06

I wanne get high...



Really! We seem to have a tendency to look for rather short problems,safe to the ground. Maybe we need to change that ...? Warm today..too warm maybe. Still a lot of people out there. Both do a 7a rather quick, nice problem. After that we both felt rather tried. Felt ok on a 7a+ if it were not for the last move! of the 6b exit....feels not doable..strange? Even tried a 6b trv. slab thing..superhard! We blame it on the sun.....

2010/04/05

Sun!



Woke up to sun and melting snow. Getting the car down went smooth as well. In the area a lot of blocks were wet but we went ahead anyway,getting a little lost again until finally finding the area we were looking for 2 days ago. As it turns out we were ca.10m off from finding it before. Some nice problems here..did the warmup thing then tried some harder stuff...went well for Mr. T but for me my head started to play with me..so no go on anything. Everything hurts, we will see what the weather says for tomorrow.

2010/04/04

Forced Rest Day





Discovering 1 disadvantage living higher up on the mountain....snow...dont think we will make it down the mountain today. Got to check our food supplies..oh FUN! Happy Easter!


2010/04/03

Just "oh no"


Earlier start..wanted to do as the guide says and park correct so we did that..ended up walking for at least 1 hr uphill,then searching for the blocks..at which point it started snowing! We still get lost easy as we estimate the distance between problems to be longer then they are. Ended up trying a 7a+/b as it was a roof and dry. After that just walked around looking att the other areas as more snow came down more and more. Then back downs..so it ended up more of a walking day...rest tomorrow as more snow seems on the way.

2010/04/02

Oh no we are lost


Started the day with -3 degrees. The plan was to check out the 1st sectors.. 1-9 to see whats on offer & try some. Started ok with us doing a 7a, did the crux move 1st try but then my head got in the way. Then down to a 6c+ that I felt did not suit me well..tried Dr. Crimp(7b),move 1&2 possible but then hard. The plan was sektor 9 but we walked wrong & 1 of the maps is wrong. Mao lots of footwork in rather warm sun. Back at the car food. Then some more walking & manage a 6c+ rather quick, then over to Dr. med Dent (7b+) that I was keen to look at. In the end tried it...felt hard & the slopers slippery,maybe due to the sun setting? We are now in our house again contemplating tomorrows moves..

2010/04/01

Oh no we are doomed..(revised)

At least one could think so. In Chironico now, apparently they had 20cm new snow up at 1000m..which made driving in a car with normal tiers a bit scary. But we started in Italy ..after T played around on the car radio for 20min he had to grudgingly admit that radio here was a different thing with either lots of talk or Eurodisco! We looked at some blocks..looks wet. Driving up over the current snow border on supersmall roads felt so so..only a drop of several 100 meters. But the place we are staying at is supernice and big! We will see what tomorrow brings...