Mixed Bag

Been sick the last 4 days with fever, joint pain, throat pain etc. First day back went to K2...was super warm and did not really do much. Reds felt ok but didn't manage to do too well on black or white problems. Don't think I am there yet and considering the temps inside think the next month will be spent doing weights, BM hangs as well outside bouldering after 19..

Ålsten

Had little time and did not want to go indoors, so decided to drive to Ålsten which is not too far off work. Looks like a nice block with the quality similar to Nacka Kvarn. Felt rather warm even though a lot of the stone was in the shade, some holds were not. Warmed up way too little and did both problems on the not so overhanging side. One of which I guess was "Popeye". Then looked at "Karlssons Aréte" which looks possible and tried "Lite Kraft" (ie. see Stockholmsförare)..turned out to be a one move wonder (1st move); did not do it though.Started to really feel my fingers now so moved on. Worked "Paladinos Aréte" and found the 1st move tricky with keeping the feet on. Next problem was the next move that needed a heel placed good and secure. Managed to do it on my last try.. due to all this never got to try "Karlsson Aréte" or "Diesel" but will return. Diesel looks interesting as its not really something I would favour.

More New FA

Tomas on "Mammoth"

Went to Balingsta again with T. Conditions were totally ok in the morning and after setting up some "Myggspiraler" even the little critters were more or less under control.
Did "Mammoth" as a warm up which felt rather good and solid.. good start. Even made the FA of the "Ice Age" project...then the heat was on for the FA on "Ice Age assis"..first T and I both fell in the middle of it all T has the advantage of doing the start more easy. T got the FA on that .. and even though I thought I had nothing left and had a few more tries on the sit (without being able do hold on) I managed to pull through on my last try.. we think it´s about the same grade as "Mammoth assis".. ca. 7a+. T gave "Mammoth assis" some goes but had little power left, next time!

Me on "Ice Age"

Thinking

Going to be humble and bla bla bla... after some thinking over this and that.. will change grades.. I think "Mammoth" should be 7A and "Mammoth assis" 7A+. Reasoning being comparison to problems T and I have tried and looked at while in Chironico. This will be of course until someone thinks I am totally out with theses grades :-D... basically need repetitions..

New FA?

Did not feel like doing anything today as I have been running around "storkyrkan" the last few days fixing cables and test everything before the "famous" wedding. SO close on going indoors but decided to just give it a go for training purposes. Conditions were so-so as one key hold was in the sun most of the time. But managed to do "Mammoth assis",not sure about the grade but felt like 7a+/7b for me. Hard start, then 1, more or less, hard move before going up the top all the way. Took some time to get the start,still do not get it every go, then everything just went (actually temps were a bit lower then, no sun and a nice breeze had come up). Will see what repeaters will say, after having seen T on it I think its morpho due to the fact that the 1st move is easier when taller...maybe.Still gets 3 stars..has it all. Will try to get a picture next time...Now going for project "Ice Age" which for now feels a bit harder then "Mammoth assis". Then again had nothing to give after doing "assis" so who knows.
By the way....does anybody know where to get "myggspiraler"? Not really fun those pests....

Hard

session again, well not really that hard...but felt hard in the body. Feel sore and weak in muscles and have joint pain.. 2 days of rest now and will see how I feel Wednesday. Otherwise ok session, did a 5 min warm up then black problems, in total 5 of the new black problems went down flash or quickly (Goal was 7/10 in hardness,maybe a 8/10? ). Close to some more but time and body were against me this time. Overall happy with the session.

Close on something

Had no chance on "Frankos" today at all,every move was hard. Repeated "Mammoth", also felt harder then last time (did it 1 move off assis). Very close to the assis, came to the 'home' hold, but not 'home' foothold.....buhh!
Also worked the 'Ice Age Project'...T nearly managed to do the stand start (ended up 'cheating' a bit in the end we thought), I was also close on that...will be cool to link it then with the assis. Cool..more projects.

Mozzy

Had more hopes on cooler weather today, but Balingsta turned out warmer then expected. Met up with T, B, and S... Both B and T repeated a variant of "Snakefarm" then started to also play on Frankos. Felt too warm and no real power on the problem and also believe that I can do it if I can get my head around to play along.
Then went down to the shade and home of the mozzys to try "Mammoth" again. T managed to day flash the thing while B and Me did it 2nd go. Nice problem, specially the finish. Then started on the sit start.. Easy for T (~1.90) but harder for me (1.80) until B pointed out another way to start.. after some tries it worked for me as well.. nobody did it from sit but makes this a 3 star problem. S also found/worked a problem trv. off to the right from "Mammoth".. hard.. add the sit start to that and one has a really nice line as well. More trips there then... even though cooler temps would really help.

More or less as planned

Plan was to have a easy session with more moves ca. 5/10 and felt just like that I think..did not want to stress my fingers too much..thus 2x trv. a ca. 120 moves, one slow and the other more tempo. Over to Tunnel, did a 6c+ 2x nearly all the way..loose hold in the way, then tested a 7c as well..1/4 was good then crux 1 got it nearly..up to crux 2 with a long move from a strange old..did some more moves before the pump got too much; played on 2 black problems felt ok..tried to not do them! Over to another ca. 120 move trv....

Buhhh

Strange feeling all day, not sure what but body and soul not really with it. Maybe the warm weather, but never could muster up some real enjoyment. Warming up with most red problems on the lower level. Then over to campus and polymetrics..rested a bit more this time and went better. Warm down with a 2 red and a black. However have some issue with the back3 of the right hand.. not good.