2010/07/28

Trail and ERROR

Ok.. went to KV again .. this time to see where my limits were injury wise (smart or not). Had a rather ok session doing 8 black problems, really close on more, as well as 2x up the Tunnel. However it seems that there has been little activity around getting new problems up (some problems must be 2 months old...). Then there is a feeling that the black problems here might be more on the easier side when compared to the other local gyms. Not having been to the other gyms and tried the same set up, so to say, but I really wonder if one could do that many in a day in the other gyms....
Back to the main point, my fingers are feeling much better again and it seems that soon I can start to try pulling harder again. The left Latissimus was however not feeling too well.. specially could feel it on two problems I tried where it was rather painful.. so we will see. I do use TENSE on it every night now and will be off a couple of days (might be able to do some light Rope(!) work done on Sunday) and back on Tuesday next week .. that was my Summer Holiday.

2010/07/26

Yesterday again

Getting a bit behind these days.. had another "trail" session last night at K together with Erik. Started off rather nice and easy with some trv. as well as some blue and red problems. Of course could not hold back and ended up flashing a new black problem.. there all good sense was gone. Should have sent another black (my fault as I was distracted by listening to someone talking to me). Repeated another black and came close to flashing 2 new blacks (did not try them again.. as I did not want to over do it...). Then did the easiest route in the Tunnel and tried the next one up as well falling 3/4 way up due to massive pump issues.. after that some trv. and light stretching to finish off the day.
All in all a ok session.. seems that black is the new red? Actually my fingers feel used taday, but there is no pain issue any more there. My latissimus however is still not 100%, so more rest / easy stuff to go..

2010/07/23

Yesterday

I went out again to do some stone searching... 2hrs later I was sweaty and tiered, nearly got lost and found 4/5 areas I was looking for.. but alas..nothing really interesting, some smaller stuff but nothing to warrant more investigation.

2010/07/21

More orminge


Went out with M after seeing the pictures on his blog. Found this in the area where he was looking..everything from vertical to 1.5m overhanging...the minus: its close to water, someone has used it to "store" their empty beer cans (mind you, all in nice big plastic bags) and the walls are high (up to ca. 8m) with little top/finishing holds. We will see what it ends up looking in more colder temps, a ladder and some cleaning but found maybe up to 5 obvious lines and likely more.
Still hoping to find some blocks or something like a new Orminge :-D
Actually really liked one of the stones M found as well .. fairly low, 1 move wonder.. but looks nice and think everything from establishing yourself in the start to the 1st move will be rather difficult.. shame it was in the sun.

ny close to Orminge

2010/07/19

Hope

Went for an "easy" session to K yesterday.. met D and L there which was a surprise... apparently they got tiered of the lack of change at their usual Gym and so wanted to try something new. Did some easy stuff and as per usual when others are around had to try some harder things as well.. even up to a white problem which was totally possible.. so much for a testing session!!!! Warm there as well...but better then nothing! No good. Lucky then that at least my injured fingers feel much better today.. now just need to repair my Lat...

2010/07/15

Frustration

YES.. more rest... still have the finger issue going on (right hand) as well as some pain in my left lats when doing pull ups. The regular ie. not climbing, gym is closed for a short holiday and it´s still rather warm.... That really does not leave much to do. :-( Even if the weather is bad one could have been hanging of the BM instead... but not even that! The only constructive thing I have done is drive out to some (for me new) boulder problems to have a look at them and now have a list of areas/problems I would like to try/do! But I want more....

2010/07/05

Quiet

Will take some time off here .. due to injury and higher temps... will see how the body feels in a week or two...

2010/07/02

Nacka Golf Klubb



Did some brushing yesterday. 3 nice lines. The first a smaller wall part with a left areté. Did the standing start ca. 6a but the sit looks like a letter grade harder..looked easier. Then a higher overhanging wall, with a obvious line..standing then long way up to ok holds then jugs. S had the key hold in his hands after a while and basically made it a future line. Possible line to the right of it,morpho, and a obvious slab that hardly needed brushing..guess around 7a? Not my thing and tiny edges in warm temps didnt feel promesing.