2010/08/27

NK

Had a quick go at NK... found it rather humid, in the sun and wet from the rain before..(note:does not dry quick). After some hanging repeated Äcklet (red dots, without one hold which was drowning). Then worked on the left variant (orange dots)..basically one uses only the left hand sides and none of the right hold for either hands or feet (might weigh in about 6c+-7a it felt like), fell off the last hold trying to match due to a foot slipping off. Then a quick go at Rough&Ready sit (green holds), had done this easy the last time... had to work for it today.. did not do it.

2010/08/22

Noret



Went there with some expectations.. but got shut down on the easiest problem (6C) already. We can always blame it on the temperature though. Further tried the sexiest problem there "Enigma Stand Start"... overhanging around 50-60 degrees and only 3 moves really around 7bB+, felt like every move was super hard, Bosma made it look easy in his Video (surprise,surprise). Even gave "Bergakungen", 7B, a try but the start felt like it was made for shorter people...Basically it was an eye opener and will lead to increased efforts in crimping, body tension as well as Deadpointing...

2010/08/19

Volume

It was to be K2 again. Decided on volume..all red problems on the top level. Well...did not do all, but ended up with around 20 red problems done. Good endurance session.

2010/08/17

More work

went to K2 again this time aiming for more volume. Did ca. 7 blue, 9 red and 4 black problems. Bit too much in the end I guess.. lots of crimping on the last 3 problems that took its toll on the finger joints...next session needs to be a lighter one.

2010/08/16

Gålö - KGB


OK.. hung a little on this again. One can not tell by the picture but the start is ca. 45 degrees and the end 55 degrees overhanging. Still no chance on the 1st 2 moves.

SummerPix







Not that I did much ...

2010/08/15

K2

today with T. Warm up on some blue and red problems. Then flash some black problems and come close on some more. Felt ok. Some problems are impossible due to pain in the lats, otherwise felt ok. Still sore in the fingers from the last session. Cool down with some red problems.

2010/08/13

Too much Too soon

Is the question of the day. Did a maybe not so long warm up as I should have tried my first black and ....was sent back to reality..pain in the Lat. Not sure if it is what the physiotherapist thought it might be. Quickly stopped that and went over to the trainingwall in the box, ca. 35 degrees overhang. Seems static moves were not a problem... Little cool down and out. Will see how it feels tomorrow...

2010/08/08

Tunnel

Worked out in the Tunnel again.. long 20 move problems.. did the 6b+ x2 the 7a+ x2 worked the 7b+ but got more interested in the 7c or 7c+ that felt much more fun to do/try. Semi flashed a easy black problem (1st move felt bad for shoulder) as well as on a white problem.(skipped 1st 2 moves and last move was not sure about the shoulder). Happy with the session even though I felt my shoulder and will try and go and see someone about it this week.

2010/08/06

more Trails...

Went training again.. just to see how it felt. Tried nothing drastic last night and kept it so that I stopped as soon as I felt something. Had some fun company with Misse, his cousin and Tomas. Did a few red problem then went over to the tunnel trying the 7a+ there and realising that the only thing lacking from doing it is PUMP.. otherwise no really hard moves there. Tried the 7b+ there as well but T and I got shut down somewhere in the middle..small pinches, overhanging and bad feet apparently does not like us.. Fun what so ever... ended up doing laps on the 6b+ there. All in all ok.. have a slight pain now the day after.. but feel like I did not really over do it.