Testing 123

Fingerboard testing actually went better this time (I guess better warm up and starting with weighted Pull Ups helped a bit there)..so a check on improvement there I think.

On the systemboard problem side things looked better as well...at least on the first problem:

Silly miss on the last move, but progress. The second problem did not go as well.. seems very dependent on shoes and pressure on feet for the first two moves.

oh My!

X-mas did it.. felt heavy and my core did not respond that well either. Warmed up with some red problems before doing some 1 foot work on the systemwall. As it has been some time it took a while to remember the foot positions and the go-go juice was just not present.

Then over to do some sloper problems but again K was lacking in that area. Found a handfull but nothing really like I had in mind. In the end gave up due to lack of power and motivation.

First try with 1 foot and new (hard) shoes:

Fingers

Went for a session at K2 today with the aim of 5 fingery problems on the vert. Warm up with 9 red and 1 black problem ..then got to work. The problems T and I tried felt hard for their grade (black and white)... managed to flash one black though.

The last one we did downstairs...got a bit of a shock as all the new black problems felt way harder then the upper ones ... seems someone decided to add a bit of spice. Could also be that T and I were not in totally super shape but at least 2/3 moves should be possible on a black..

With that I will have a test/rest week again next week and then I only have 3 more weeks left of my original program...was it worth it? We will see next year I guess..but it sure worked my core and shoulders a lot. After this I have ca. 2 Months left before going on a climbing trip... meaning that I have to come up with a new short term plan for that time...think I will go with a bit of light progression training.

Campus

Over to KV again for some Campus. Warm up felt ok:ish but sluggish in the arms. The Main course was hard as well.. Friday and Sunday still sitting in my body I guess. Slight pain in left arm which made things a bit harder. First part went ok, appart from loosing grip due to the tape. Second part went ok I guess.. a bit powerless and too much pump. Took some weight off in the last set. The rest of the time was spent cheering on T and E(who looked strong). Finished off with some play on black problems before the Russian Twists.

T

for tiered... the warm up felt hard ..what would come next? I think that the encores on Friday took out some arm power for sure...things that were easy last time felt hard today. Today 4 problems a la 20min was on the list of things to do.

Mauro looked strong on the warm up and managed to do a black really quickly. Good Work.. T also impressed by flashing the first of the 4 problems (purple)...while I worked at it not getting the heel move at all..then worked on two blue(black) problems where one felt really hard and the other one should go down next time. Went down to work on a yellow(black) which I did last try. Had a quick go on another yellow(black) nearly did it 2nd go.. no power left.

Looking forward to some rest....

BM yesterday

Session in the Garage on the BM. Six different positions x6....first time in a long while I did this via Encores. Felt it big time in my arms....feels like this could be a thing to do more of (will look at this further).

This time warmed the garage with a heater as well as followed a tip from the net: sandpaper, then rub in slopers with chalk and lightly brush of excess chalk... this combined with a better warm up helped a bit.

Working at it

Lacking sleep as well sore from the campus session was maybe not the best combo. Did a bit of bouldering in the form of easy-medium-hard-medium-easy etc. Ended up with some red and black problems..the white ones I tried felt hard.

Feels like I had little to give in the shoulder,core and foot area... added a few core things on rings every day..not much but seems to have an impact, guess I will need to get used to it.

Campus

Slow warm up, then over to the campus..been a while. Felt stable with the deadhang workout...over to the sloper DH, if only there were some proper slopers. Then did the go-agains on the Campus plus little extra weight..good except that the last set felt really hard and need to tape the little fingers as my skin did not like the rungs today.

Finished off with some Russian Twists and stretching.

Test again

Well...time for testing again. To start off with on the BM...turns out that 7+ degrees does not help the friction on wood and that it took a until the end of the session before there was some stick. Really did not have the time for that and need to work out a better way to do things. As a result the hangs were worse than the pull ups.

Session 2 was testing the 2 set systemboard problems. Felt no push from my core and fingers still hurting. Problem 1: the 1st 2 moves just would not work out, but did good on the next 2 moves. Problem 2: Finally did the 1st move again, but not the 2nd... Core!!

Finished off with some red and black problems.

Music

can usually be used as a good way to get your mood up, your blood flowing and crushing. Well...today the music did not help as they insisted on playing jazz, Christmas songs etc. which really did not help at all... Only new problems to play on at Verket which the skin noticed as well. Everything felt hard ...my fingers and body have taken a beating it feels like..so a bit of rest is in order now. Thank you. Managed to do 2/3 black problems, close on some others...but that is beside the point at the moment. Problems will count later on :-D

Slopers

Todays Session involved 1 foot bouldering which showed that when using my right foot only I am much weaker. Then off to doing 3 Sloper problems.... and turns out that slopers are/were not my friends..felt hard. Did 2 of the 3 in the end..