2011/11/30

Björnö, Medvind-V

David on the super nice Medvind (vänster) problem.

2011/11/27

Björnö




Here some pics of a nice new place we were at yesterday. The top shows more or less the wall, it's about 15 degrees overhanging and the middle part offers some harder projects.

The middle pictures shows the right side with 2 problems "?" (green) ca.6A+ and "Gubbröra"(red) ca. 6B+; there was a FA done just right of the Green line, but a crucial hold broke.. might be possible still?

The last picture shows (or actually not..) the left hand side with two problems set up "Medvind sit start" (red) ca.7B/+ and a left start variation "Medvind vänster" (green) ca. 6C/+..here you can see more of the harder projects on the middle part as well. 

2011/11/14

Village People, Paese


"Working hard"

As Winter is upon us soon the rate of pix on this sight will go down a bit, due to me not having enough material to last through the Winter. But who knows...if it's a mild Winter there might be some more action shots.

:-)

2011/11/13

Compton Crips - check


Finally did it today.
A bit on the cold side with +4 degrees and a cold breeze but a short warm up and some hangs and it felt ok. A bit of strange foot action in the end..but it's getting up that counts.
:-)

2011/11/07

2011/11/06

So f***ing close!


Ahhh... could do it easy from where the first part starts, finally worked out the first 2 moves and got it to work for me.. then started going for the whole thing...to end up with a total Brain freeze 3 moves from the top! Had more tries but it  took all my power! 
Next time!

2011/11/03

Fingers

-No comment-
:-)

2011/11/02

Smaristräsket again



Maybe better light next time...

2011/11/01

Smaristräsket



Something "new" that we visited a few years back and went back to have a look at again. Right along "Värmdöleden" around Saltarö. Seems that the sit start could be hard involving heel hooks, Compression, Knee Bars and tension just to get up to the stand start from where things seem to get easier. 
A beautiful  Line it is ... with potential for maybe one or two more hard lines...