T

for tiered... the warm up felt hard ..what would come next? I think that the encores on Friday took out some arm power for sure...things that were easy last time felt hard today. Today 4 problems a la 20min was on the list of things to do.

Mauro looked strong on the warm up and managed to do a black really quickly. Good Work.. T also impressed by flashing the first of the 4 problems (purple)...while I worked at it not getting the heel move at all..then worked on two blue(black) problems where one felt really hard and the other one should go down next time. Went down to work on a yellow(black) which I did last try. Had a quick go on another yellow(black) nearly did it 2nd go.. no power left.

Looking forward to some rest....

Mr. T

Was on fire tonight! I felt like a sack of potatoes next to him...Then again, here come the excuses, I haven't been feeling well (jumped over mondays session); stressing with my parent; stress at work and little sleep... a bit over 4.5 hours last night.
Anyway, it started all well for the warm up except maybe a little too pumped. Then flashed a new black???(more red..if), tried another new black which was much harder..after some beta searching for T. he managed to do it, I just pumped out.
Tried a new white, both got 1/2 way. Then over to a, again, new white..worked out all moves and was close..more technique then power it felt. And again after working out most of the beta..Mr.T snags it...I had no power left in me to try more, felt my little finger too much from crimping.
Then even on the 1 arm DH Mr.T impressed, last time we were close but now..
All in all a fun session. Next time with my watch to hold proper rest times and stick to 2 hrs. Good to know that at least one white at KV is doable (next time) so it's all good :-D

Mixed feelings

Still feeling tiered abused and very sore from the Ring training... 5.3 min warm up. Big group..T,S,B, M, D etc. all new problems at KV. Fun red problems.. then do some black problems.. no power in my arms and shoulders though. Didn't try any white problems today..but seemed very hard. Finish of with some more rings and 1 arm DH's.
More...

Fingers

With T at KV...on the Days menu: white problems. Due to KV comp on friday this became a little limited. 5.3min warm up trv. Then 3 white problems.. got to do a highpoint on one, on the next lost it all and never came up to my last highpoint. Then tried a "new" white which felt harder then all the other whites and quickly moved on to an open hand white where my power left me. Felt like a hard finger and core session... feeling it now! Managed to finish off with 1 Ring Dip and 5.3min trv.

Red

At KV today with T. 5.3 min trv as warm up.. then over to all blue and after that all red problems. Finished of with 17.5 red problems out of 20..missed the last 2 and really didn't have that much more to give. Finished of with trying to do some ring dips.. very hard I found, then did some 5.3 min. trv. again. Nice session ::-D

Powerpass

Session at KV today...lots of people again, warming up with S, doing some blue,red and one easy black problem. Then searching for some white problems.. found 3 nice looking ones and got to work. Problem 1.. long moves and small crimps, fun..hard, but could be possible. Problem 2.. looked possible at least 1/2 way and S made it look easy up to there..didn't seem to suit me..found every move hard. Problem 3 not my style either, overhanging, 5 moves, hard, full crimp and body tension..PG thought it was a good problem, then again it suits him and he ain't weak...fun!!
Little finger didn't seem to like the crimping too much though :-D

Tired

Of to KC with a plan.. that I in the end didn´t go through with for several reasons. I was a bit apprehensive over my right hand fingers and how they felt so I took it rather easy on that side, a less pure power orientated session. Typical B warm up... hahahah.. then worked on some white problems. Had a few tries on a red (white) that felt rather fun and then got stuck on a black(white) with fun moves.. hard but fun! Finished off with some Footless bouldering. Taped my little and middlefinger and didn´t feel too bad. .. even afterwardsfelt ok.. we shall see next time :-D

Tired and Hurt

Already felt tired warming up, no good 5 hours of sleep and lots of stress didn't help I guess + think I still feel the last session. This time at K again.. lots of people and alone which only helped me sticking to the rest time for the 1st time! Noticed early that there was something wrong/strange with my little finger (must have injured it somehow last time) :-( and in middle I managed to overstretch my right pec muscle as well..
Due to the situation at hand only tried 2 of the white problems from last time. Made the 1st move on one after some tries but could not repeat it. On the other I came closer to the 1st move and now could do the 2nd move.
Rest now and see how the finger feels next time.

Fun

Interesting session at K with T. Longer warm up and then 3 white problems to try with ca. 3/4 tries each, rested. Went totally ok I think, a bit sour on one of my 3 as I seem to have read it totally wrong, but that is ok. Even the new shoes were more to my liking again... (maybe they only feel good at K??). Over and out.

Better

At KC today and only new problems to try out :-D... ended up with trying all the black problems, again some felt easy some very hard for the color. Felt better then I thought it would be, having muscle ache like hell in my arms, stomach and back.... Lot of moves done (too many?)..ended up with doing two black problems (the easiest ones) close on some more.. Fun session! :-D

-suck-

Not much to say.. new shoes (none sticky rubber), no power, no will...

Pics of the Day

Tested a new Effect on these.. so-so result

Knarkarkvarten

Perfect Weather today! Good friction at the rock, then again it´s Orhem so the rock has a lot of friction (in respect to nice cristals...). Cool gang out that never had been there. Warmed up with "All I need" which felt ok. Then over to "Natterbjudande" which had a bit of scary top out and I think only S did it in the end. "Kalsongfjong" was up next.. don´t know where the grade came from but we thought is was not harder than "Natterbjudande" (even easier?) Had a few goes at "Karate Kid" got down to the first 2 moves being the crux.. the rest was not that hard. Think the first move is possible.. but felt the clear crux for me was the second move. Even tried the "un-named" left corner..but either we had no power left or couldn't read it too well but it felt hard for the grade...
All in all a nice day out in the woods :-D

Pics will follow...

Källberga

A little trip out to Uppsala again this fine Autumn Day...

A bit of problem searching...

Even I got to try some, here on Sömnlös.. possible for sure, but hard on the skin.

Mr B doing Subway rather easy

More problem finding...

and a nice finish

Focksta - Söderängarna

Off out of town to Focksta. First time there. Nice to have gotten a Guidebook.. rough granit, likely too warm to climb but was fun.. Warmed up on a Statistik(5B) which felt hard for the grade and the top out full of moss, then over to Jagad(6A+) which had the same problem, felt at bit easier then the 1st one. Then do Dumbo(6C) after a few tries, fun 1 move problem. Look at Candy Man(7A).. looks cool, but was in the sun. Over to Split Personality(6C/+) do this in 3 tries, cool overhanging crack that was very physical. Try Sister Vanilla(7A) and Gloria(7A) but felt way too warm in the sun to try. Do Fasans Makt(6B) after way too many tries.. getting tiered and sore skin. Try S-Man(7A) another 1 move wonder but what a move..felt really hard and B and I had no clue how to do it. Gave Vilse i pannkakan(7B) a try and think that I can do it..fun problem!! Presenten(7B) also looked nice but we couldn't work out the start and the last move is really!far! Well worth another visit I think! And next time I will not forget my Camera :-D