Showing posts with label Frankos shelter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Frankos shelter. Show all posts

2011/03/19

Francos shelter


Had a long night and a lot of food so didn't really feel like training. However the weather was nice and T said it was nice outside (he was busy doing other things himself, E felt a bit sick).. so after a lot of if and when etc. I made a quick decision of going out to Balingsta to check out Francos shelter. Got there and was already tired just walking there. The problem was in the shade and had snow on almost all holds..specially on top...whats better than brushing and cleaning a problem for warm up? After said work started to work to top part and got the moves rather quick again. Then went and tried the middle part which took some more work as I forgot the beta as well as the one I think I had didn't work for me.. last try it suddenly worked. Decided to rest some 10minutes to give the start a try (the hardest part for me-only done it 2/3 times)..this time it went 1st try..though I went for my original beta for the moves and added one. After that had some tries which saw me doing the middle move but not getting it good enough. So some more rest, some food..and the next try saw me on top (now did the top part as B did). Very happy I rested more again and repeated it once more.. leaving I noticed that more snow was melting and some holds started to get wet..lucky me! Too tired to give the real Snakefarm a try.

2010/05/30

Getting closer

Had a good session with T today. Sceptical about my form and the weather...would "Frankos shelter" hold up..would my shoulder and finger? As it turned out ..yes they would..and all went better the ever. Did moves 3-5 (finish) for the 1st time now. Then also managed to find a better foot position to do the 2nd move. Linked move 2-4 as well..falling on the last. T managed then to repeat my version of "Snakefarm" agrees with the grade around 7a+. Then went for a ground up try.. fucked up on the transition from move 2-3 (more like surprised myself that I came that far). Next time will go for ground up tries..feels that I am closing in on it. Interesting to see that T thought the 2nd move was the easiest.. might be his length?
Then went over to look at "Mammoth" 7a+ again, actually worked out the start now, thx T, then managed to work all up to the "scary" top out on slab.. doable! GOOD Time!!

2010/05/11

There again


After some quick thinking & new options ended up going to...Balingsta once again. Mr T went along and sent 2 of 5 problems fast. He got close on "Snakefarm" as well and we concluded that my way should be around 7a+ like. I finaly got all of the right beta for me on "Francos shelter",missed a now obvious move in the start. Ended up doing all moves,now need to link them. Totally possible this problem!