Orminge...igen

Motivation was on top in the morning but towards the evening got lower and lower. Actually got there earlier then I though I would be which was good, as I don't know how long my lights will last. Temps were even lower, which is good (no blood suckers got me today), but either my hands are really sweaty all the time or it was rather humid...when is the best friction at this place???
Warmed up with "PhatCat", did it 4x with several variations as well as "Vänsterkonpiration". Then tried the crux of "White Trash" x3 but still seem to have no clue as how to do it...
Over to the Main Course: "Wong Sai"... what a line! Really want to do this problem. Tried the different moves and actually felt good on them. Now managed to do the move after the touchy heel to the sharp crimper 1st go and it felt ok. Even managed to go one move further to the left pinch..but as I was alone and only had 2 Pads I chickend out trying to do the last moves..
Then tried to link the moves.. best try was from start to the middle..I have my sequence now .. but found the move to the second sloper/crimp on the ramp with the left hand really hard today and just greased off every time and never really got to hold it as I wanted to.
The 2 lights are close to enough for the problem..1 more and the whole problem would be bathed in light.
All in all I think I can do this problem with better (skin)conditions a bit more stamina and a little portion of luck and umpfff :-D

Focksta - Söderängarna

Off out of town to Focksta. First time there. Nice to have gotten a Guidebook.. rough granit, likely too warm to climb but was fun.. Warmed up on a Statistik(5B) which felt hard for the grade and the top out full of moss, then over to Jagad(6A+) which had the same problem, felt at bit easier then the 1st one. Then do Dumbo(6C) after a few tries, fun 1 move problem. Look at Candy Man(7A).. looks cool, but was in the sun. Over to Split Personality(6C/+) do this in 3 tries, cool overhanging crack that was very physical. Try Sister Vanilla(7A) and Gloria(7A) but felt way too warm in the sun to try. Do Fasans Makt(6B) after way too many tries.. getting tiered and sore skin. Try S-Man(7A) another 1 move wonder but what a move..felt really hard and B and I had no clue how to do it. Gave Vilse i pannkakan(7B) a try and think that I can do it..fun problem!! Presenten(7B) also looked nice but we couldn't work out the start and the last move is really!far! Well worth another visit I think! And next time I will not forget my Camera :-D

Wong-Sai

Fun session today, still too warm, but better. Midpart felt slimy.. and again can´t remember the way I did it before ... what can one say?
S got better and better..while I just got more tiered. Worked the heel in the middle and did it as good as every time :-D
Then went for the next move to the sharp crimp.. took a while for me to figure out, and the move afterwards felt really hard. Point to S who did it from there to the top rather easy....
M came to have a talk, tried to have a go, against better judgment.. what can one say. Poor M, fun that he came out though... good effort! Thanks for the moral "support".. ;-D

Bagarmossen

Little short trip there today.. forgot the anti-mozzy stuff and tape.. no good! Took 2 lamps today .. much better. Enough to carry on in the darkness, but more would be better. Felt good on the project, did the 1st 2 moves x2 but couldn't hold the swing..need to work out how to stop it. Tried the project left of it.. full crimps on small sharper holds and long inbetween.."only" 2/3 moves to the "home" hold..but hard!!!
FUN!

Off Topic -Tattoo!

Bad pics from Baggis

No good these.. needed more time and planning but got too into trying the problems..

Out and About

Went outside at Baggis last night.. 1st time after a "longer" rest and it felt ok.
To remember is that it´s time to take some lights with you when going out after work..(or try and go earlier..) otherwise the fun stops early. Also noteworthy is that the little flying pests are still at it and colder temps would be nice as well.
Overall not a lot got done by us, some of the warm ups, but none of the Projects went down. After working on the SW right extention project a bit I got excited and really want to give this a few more tries.. it will be hard but possible I think.. T´s and my project got a new possible solution from B.. but it felt long and harder for me, I believe more in my variant.. specially after nearly having done it that way twice. Now there are 3 possible ways of doing the crux move.. just choose the one that works for you.
Another problem is that the area isn´t frequented too often and next time I will need to take the ladder with me and do some brushing as a lot of it is all green again, can´t have that now can we
;-D