2010/04/25

Balingsta



Snakefarm,Balingsta

Warmed up and then repeated "Ballista". Too many tries though....drew some blood. Then working on "Snakefarm"..do all moves but one,possible..more juice and core needed. Looked at "Mammoth" which looks doable if one can work out the high slab finish, also looked at "Devil"..didnt get the start but then looks hard and fun. Only downside is that it is pollen season which does not help the power.

2010/04/21

Back to training

again on plastic. After we planned to go to KV we ended up going to K2 as there was a fire alarm when we got there and nobody knew how long it would go on for. Well, 8 minutes later we were at K2. Did a nice short warm up and slowly proceeded into today goal of a moderate Session of 10-15 move problems. Actually managed to get pumped rather quick, but tried to push through anyway. Was a fun session and got to see all of the new Problems there as well.

2010/04/18

Nyckelviken

Went out with T and E for a quick session outdoors. This was the first after 1 week of resting since we came back. Felt ok... did a 6B,6C repeated a 6C without topout and tried some 7a´s.. Actually thought we did one but as it turns out just did the start of a 7b+ not knowing how to finish it correctly though (did the straight up version and the FA seems to be an eliminate trv.?) Well, waiting for the guy who did the FA to answer my questions.. but again better info and even pictures are wanted on Sverigeförarens page..they were there before but seems like they got taken away again...Anyway totally ok Day. Also need to remember to take pix as well...

2010/04/13

Back in Black

Well Well.. so one is back at home again. Shame really because the last days seemed rather good. T had a last go at "Bella Gnocca" /7b as I called it a day before we even set out. But being true to myself I did bring along some shoes and had a go at it as well... worked the crux moves and in the end came up with a solution that suited me and I am sure I could have done it that way. Sadly it didn´t work out for either T or me.. 3rd. day on and wrong shoes (needed a good heel) worked against us this time.. but both could have done it. Still thinking of "Made in Norway" another 7b that we looked at on Saturday.. really really liked that problem! Overhanging, Tall and Crimpy.. need to train hard now for next year.
Resting now for a week and maybe off to Åland on the Weekend.

2010/04/10

Casual Boulder



T on Casual Boulder, 6c/+

Both T & I feel the last days..should have rested 1 day more we feel. Plus that today felt much warmer,think even I managed to get burnt. Tried a nice 7a..doable but a tricky & shouldery move set stop to us setting the problem..not much gas left. Met some nice Italian guys, Lori from Totelore blog, that we had a fun time with. His friend sent "made in Norway",7b, rather quick and the problem looks super! Shame we just saw it today! Now food and maybe some more last bouldering tomorrow.

2010/04/09

Power is draining



Lascia che sia,7a

Another warm day at the crag. Started of with some nice goes on the 7a from monday, falling only to stupid misstakes. Made it on my last try... T got close to the extention of the problem a 7b, falling on the last move! Then got close on another 7a,just needed to hold the 1st move a bit longer. T did a morpho 6c+ soon after that. Afterwards we both felt like our power left us..2 rest days so far maybe not the optimal thing. We will see what we can muster tomorrow.

2010/04/08

Restday



T resting? Nope...working...

Warm day just like the rest of this week around 20 degrees = rather warm for climbing. Did some driving, watching planes,trains & automobiles...eating, more eating..now dinner and then sleep.