Had a quick go at NK... found it rather humid, in the sun and wet from the rain before..(note:does not dry quick). After some hanging repeated Äcklet (red dots, without one hold which was drowning). Then worked on the left variant (orange dots)..basically one uses only the left hand sides and none of the right hold for either hands or feet (might weigh in about 6c+-7a it felt like), fell off the last hold trying to match due to a foot slipping off. Then a quick go at Rough&Ready sit (green holds), had done this easy the last time... had to work for it today.. did not do it.
2010/08/27
NK
Had a quick go at NK... found it rather humid, in the sun and wet from the rain before..(note:does not dry quick). After some hanging repeated Äcklet (red dots, without one hold which was drowning). Then worked on the left variant (orange dots)..basically one uses only the left hand sides and none of the right hold for either hands or feet (might weigh in about 6c+-7a it felt like), fell off the last hold trying to match due to a foot slipping off. Then a quick go at Rough&Ready sit (green holds), had done this easy the last time... had to work for it today.. did not do it.
2010/08/22
Noret
Went there with some expectations.. but got shut down on the easiest problem (6C) already. We can always blame it on the temperature though. Further tried the sexiest problem there "Enigma Stand Start"... overhanging around 50-60 degrees and only 3 moves really around 7bB+, felt like every move was super hard, Bosma made it look easy in his Video (surprise,surprise). Even gave "Bergakungen", 7B, a try but the start felt like it was made for shorter people...Basically it was an eye opener and will lead to increased efforts in crimping, body tension as well as Deadpointing...
2010/08/19
Volume
It was to be K2 again. Decided on volume..all red problems on the top level. Well...did not do all, but ended up with around 20 red problems done. Good endurance session.
2010/08/17
More work
went to K2 again this time aiming for more volume. Did ca. 7 blue, 9 red and 4 black problems. Bit too much in the end I guess.. lots of crimping on the last 3 problems that took its toll on the finger joints...next session needs to be a lighter one.
2010/08/16
Gålö - KGB
OK.. hung a little on this again. One can not tell by the picture but the start is ca. 45 degrees and the end 55 degrees overhanging. Still no chance on the 1st 2 moves.
2010/08/15
K2
today with T. Warm up on some blue and red problems. Then flash some black problems and come close on some more. Felt ok. Some problems are impossible due to pain in the lats, otherwise felt ok. Still sore in the fingers from the last session. Cool down with some red problems.
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