Project, Dog Rock

Fine day today until it was time to go home from work...showers!

First time outside for a long time, it was wet but we gave it try..

Dog Rock

Misse playing in the heat with a variant on Dog Rock

Lussekatten

Had to drive a bit further to get out to some dry rock yesterday, had a go at Lussekatten, Dog Rock. Noticed in the end that the GoPro Camera is very light sensitive and doesn't handle the dark to well... even with 3 light sources. Guess I need something with a wider angel to put more general light on the rock. Of course I had to change the angel of the camera as well when I sent the problem... 

Yesterday

Was a nice Day so we went out again. This time went to Dog Rock to have a look. Ended up doing all the easier problems there. "Lussekatten" was on the list but had a wet (running) start hold which was a shame. Tried "The Thing" as well, but even here the last two holds were soaking wet.. might upgrade it to 6c though. The sit start is very morpho as I discovered as even I could (just) reach the,current, start...shorter than 1.80 though will make it a much harder start. Started working on a another new line (also wet at the top) where I manged to do the first few moves..will be around the 6th grade. The block on which "Glöggparty" goes was also dry except for the top outs. All in all a fine day out..nice sun and good session to get the fingers/skin used to real rock again. Here a movie short of 2 problems done:

Yesterday

Still taking care of myself. Had a short go at Dog Rock. Repeated most of the easy things as warm up..did a FA of "the Thing"..grade? felt really easy today..6b+ maybe 6c, but the sit start is egging me-hard! Noticed though that if one is tall one can reach the first hold of the "established start" which is a shame. Even did another FA called "Oddjob",6a, something to play on but so-so as one crux is not to touch a tree...Had some tries on Lussekatten,7B, but the 1st move is "ach" so hard...Furthermore brushed up another project which has athletic start and then goes over to technical then to fingery climbing..Did everything but the last 1/2 m ..the crux, felt hard, will see when fresh.

Dog Rock + Been a while!

Some pics from Dog Rock. Above "Vänster och Höger Areten" ca. 6A
Below: "Bonde söker Fru" (green) ca. 6A+ and "Sallad Fingers" (red) ca. 6B then I forgot the project here: Standing Start (at the hight of the 3rd red dot, to the right)..hold on to the good pinch, maybe match, try find some thing higher and of to catch the sloper edge with a sloper topout..hard to grade...but felt very hard..

Below: "Lussekaten" ca. 7B

Project "Semlan" ca. 6B+/C but with propper sitt start ca. 7B maybe

Then a little behind these problem is another stone with "Glöggparty" ca. 7A (red) as well as a hard Project (green) around 7B/C maybe

There are more problems around on smaller areas which I might take pictures of next time if I remember where they are (Trevor knows). Plus I might have gotten some names wrong here..
Seems that none of the pix are sharp! Need to check my Camera I think :-(

As for me I have been resting for 2 weeks now (well cheating last Sunday where I went for a Picnic with the family here at Dog Rock.. tried only "lussekatten" did all from the 1st move, but the 1st move I find really hard. The shoulder (rotator cuffs) area feels a little better and I will now start off trying to do ca. 2 weeks of easy climbing..
We will see how that goes.