2010/01/31

I hate to say it....Burning...

Went over to KC in Solna to get some new problems under my fingers and for the variation. Ended up with doing a total of 21 (red) problems... could have been a few more but not too bad. Not to guess then that my skin is a nice shade of Pink now .. well, it was fun though. Some very nice problems over there! :-D

2010/01/28

Still burning

Getting used to climb later now that Pam has a new job. Been going alone and just meeting up with people like PG and getting tips. Ended up doing nearly all (red) and the (black) from last time as well as playing on some more (black) problems (and here I guess we have a problem in that it's more fun to try harder problems (usually they are built more fun as well) then sticking to one's plans). At the same time I am now trying to pay more attention to things like movement as well as playing with holding crimps openhanded.. (which by the way isn't that easy..) Felt like a solid session but in the end my skin couldn't hold on anymore. Now for some rest... :-)

According to Dave

who's Book I am now reading for the 2. time one should face one's fears as well improve on one's weaknesses. Together with drop a few goals to some people and try to reach them.. these goals are to within resonabel reach. Well here we go things for 2010 are:

Weight: around 75-78kg
Problems: At least 1 7b/7b+ (I have several problems in mind here.. Wong-Sai; SnakePit; KarateKid; Houdini....)
Periodisation of trainiing
Better Core strength
Better openhand strength
Better 1 arm hanging strength
Better teknik
"Enjoy" failure
Climb with different people and with a lot of people around to watch

These are not in any specific order and there are more points...

2010/01/26

Better late..

Seems like tuesdays will end up being late sessions ie. around 19/30.... Went a bit better today, specially in the start. Could finish my warm up without being pumped! Then did around 7 red problems 1st go and 1 black 3rd go. Also did the easiest in the Tunnel 2x (although I lost a lot of skin on it and it felt really hard- again a sign that more volume and pump is needed). Better on the rests in-between tries today but still a bit too much? Felt on the cool down that I might have gone overboard.. skin is also burning like crazy at the moment...... MOre :-D

2010/01/24

Burn..baby, burn!

First session in 5 weeks. Went to KV with the plan of doing all blue and red problems. Well already my usual warm up got me pumped! Then most likely started off too quick with too little rests, as one does. Managed to do all blue problems at least..which I can't say about the red problems...some went down, some I struggled on and in the end some I got pumped out on. Form is missing for sure, need to build up some pump as well as movement training... basically the next weeks will be filled with just doing red and blue problems until those go easy again, getting back the flow! Did try 1 black problem which I could have done were it not at the end of the session... felt more like a nice red problem (so not all is lost) :-D

2010/01/20

weight

80.4 kg

2010/01/19

Back

Hello...
Back again since 0.10 am this morning... sitting at work and feeling, well feeling .... The trip home was as usual an adventure and Zoe sure had a hard time the last few hours of our flight. After a month of doing not a lot and eating a lot I sure feel and look like a sack of potatoes and really am looking forward to training again. Hopefully this will be by the end of the week when things have come back to normal again. I managed to loose my phone on the way home somewhere in Santiago, Madrid, Frankfurt so I will be unavailable via phone untill I get a new card and phone.. so mail me (specially to give me your mobile numbers again....)
:-D