Oh Power, where art thou? (at KV)

well.. today not really present. Felt tiered and sickish in the warm up already and the red problems I had done previously felt hard now. T came as well and we stared to work on the black problems...everything felt hard, usually one can do more than one move but not today..all in all did a black (junior boulder)..red at it's best, close to another (last move) and another black onsight (again didn't feel black..).
Maybe the BM session on Monday or the new stomach training yesterday.
Next time :-D

Källberga

A little trip out to Uppsala again this fine Autumn Day...

A bit of problem searching...

Even I got to try some, here on Sömnlös.. possible for sure, but hard on the skin.

Mr B doing Subway rather easy

More problem finding...

and a nice finish

Karbin

There with Mr. T..forgot that it was Boulderbash tomorrow so due to that only the boulderblocks new problems were available...in the end did all red problems, some more tricky then others. Then went over to try the black problems, of course that was not so good.. a lot felt hard, maybe due to the red pump? In the end did none but 3 felt doable for sure! Tried a cool looking white yellow that seems doable as well..1 hard move on a left pinch..me not like. Pain in fingerjoints and right Biceps.. this was in the end not what I had planned for this week. Better discipline next time... !
Then again Mr. T said it was his fault that we went over to black... :)

Indoors - KV

Well. it´s actually been some time since I have been indoors.. and well it was a so-so experience. First of all there were way too many people running around, it might have been due to Mr. Sharma visiting or that it was after work.. in autumn.. more people go indoors.
The days goal was to do all "red" problems.. got away with a good start, but again just rushing through things and got pumped rather quick. Jumped over the "red" mantel problems and got stuck on a problem that I should have done.. Furthermore I then digressed over to try some "black" problems... being pumped and not really on the menu for the night the results were as expected. Was missing Misse who never turned up...
As Mr. Sharma said later on .. it´s all about the Fun and Motivation.. :-D

Me Like:

"Alla moven gjorde han i alla fall och har man gjort det kan man göra problemet, det gäller alla problem om man frågar mig..." read this on another blogg... me like! Do IT :-D

WS again

Ok, this must have been the best conditions yet.. early in the morning! Then again it is my hands/fingers that are sweaty... what to do?
The usul warm up with "Phat Cat" and "Vänsterpartiet".. before going over to my current obsession.."Wong Sai".. think I can do the start easier now then before after some different Beta from S. Worked on the middle move I have had problems with the last 2 sessions.. after all kind of different set it prooved to be my original way works best for me and I actually did it that way as well.. So now I have my sequence, need to stick with it!! Felt my shoulders from last time a lot, especially the right one, lots of locking off on that side.. good with a little break now.
Even though S was there and we had 1 more pad the last 2 moves are for the moment a big ? for me.. just don`t get it really.. never got further than last time, today noticing that my feet come of when trying for the foot match..is there another way of doing that move?
Still feel I can do it.. more work needed but once I manage to link longer and figure out the end we are talking all systems go... go go :-D
Actually now that the temps are a bit lower I want to have another session with "Snakefarm",Ballingsta.. to see if I remember the moves and get a feel for it again. Mr. B do you remeber the upper sequence?

Orminge...igen

Motivation was on top in the morning but towards the evening got lower and lower. Actually got there earlier then I though I would be which was good, as I don't know how long my lights will last. Temps were even lower, which is good (no blood suckers got me today), but either my hands are really sweaty all the time or it was rather humid...when is the best friction at this place???
Warmed up with "PhatCat", did it 4x with several variations as well as "Vänsterkonpiration". Then tried the crux of "White Trash" x3 but still seem to have no clue as how to do it...
Over to the Main Course: "Wong Sai"... what a line! Really want to do this problem. Tried the different moves and actually felt good on them. Now managed to do the move after the touchy heel to the sharp crimper 1st go and it felt ok. Even managed to go one move further to the left pinch..but as I was alone and only had 2 Pads I chickend out trying to do the last moves..
Then tried to link the moves.. best try was from start to the middle..I have my sequence now .. but found the move to the second sloper/crimp on the ramp with the left hand really hard today and just greased off every time and never really got to hold it as I wanted to.
The 2 lights are close to enough for the problem..1 more and the whole problem would be bathed in light.
All in all I think I can do this problem with better (skin)conditions a bit more stamina and a little portion of luck and umpfff :-D

Focksta - Söderängarna

Off out of town to Focksta. First time there. Nice to have gotten a Guidebook.. rough granit, likely too warm to climb but was fun.. Warmed up on a Statistik(5B) which felt hard for the grade and the top out full of moss, then over to Jagad(6A+) which had the same problem, felt at bit easier then the 1st one. Then do Dumbo(6C) after a few tries, fun 1 move problem. Look at Candy Man(7A).. looks cool, but was in the sun. Over to Split Personality(6C/+) do this in 3 tries, cool overhanging crack that was very physical. Try Sister Vanilla(7A) and Gloria(7A) but felt way too warm in the sun to try. Do Fasans Makt(6B) after way too many tries.. getting tiered and sore skin. Try S-Man(7A) another 1 move wonder but what a move..felt really hard and B and I had no clue how to do it. Gave Vilse i pannkakan(7B) a try and think that I can do it..fun problem!! Presenten(7B) also looked nice but we couldn't work out the start and the last move is really!far! Well worth another visit I think! And next time I will not forget my Camera :-D

Wong-Sai

Fun session today, still too warm, but better. Midpart felt slimy.. and again can´t remember the way I did it before ... what can one say?
S got better and better..while I just got more tiered. Worked the heel in the middle and did it as good as every time :-D
Then went for the next move to the sharp crimp.. took a while for me to figure out, and the move afterwards felt really hard. Point to S who did it from there to the top rather easy....
M came to have a talk, tried to have a go, against better judgment.. what can one say. Poor M, fun that he came out though... good effort! Thanks for the moral "support".. ;-D

Bagarmossen

Little short trip there today.. forgot the anti-mozzy stuff and tape.. no good! Took 2 lamps today .. much better. Enough to carry on in the darkness, but more would be better. Felt good on the project, did the 1st 2 moves x2 but couldn't hold the swing..need to work out how to stop it. Tried the project left of it.. full crimps on small sharper holds and long inbetween.."only" 2/3 moves to the "home" hold..but hard!!!
FUN!

Off Topic -Tattoo!

Bad pics from Baggis

No good these.. needed more time and planning but got too into trying the problems..

Out and About

Went outside at Baggis last night.. 1st time after a "longer" rest and it felt ok.
To remember is that it´s time to take some lights with you when going out after work..(or try and go earlier..) otherwise the fun stops early. Also noteworthy is that the little flying pests are still at it and colder temps would be nice as well.
Overall not a lot got done by us, some of the warm ups, but none of the Projects went down. After working on the SW right extention project a bit I got excited and really want to give this a few more tries.. it will be hard but possible I think.. T´s and my project got a new possible solution from B.. but it felt long and harder for me, I believe more in my variant.. specially after nearly having done it that way twice. Now there are 3 possible ways of doing the crux move.. just choose the one that works for you.
Another problem is that the area isn´t frequented too often and next time I will need to take the ladder with me and do some brushing as a lot of it is all green again, can´t have that now can we
;-D