Medium

Session today..had a tension headache all day long so tried to take it easy more or less. Did the lock-off training on a less overhanging wall which felt much better..easier I guess. The Hand-Foot training also was better this time...same angle as last time so a bit of progress I guess. As it turns out the system session was ok as well. Productive but a bit of a painful session.

Uurrgghhhyyy

Uff,,quick tempo session that felt harder then it should have. Tiered everywhere,need energy it felt like. Went for a 8-4-2 set up. Starting with the red problems.. it was already hard, over to black problems..had to bite the bullet there as well..over to white. Actually had a really good try on the white one in the hall..after which not much worked out... Stefan looks like he is in good shape! Will be nice to see new problems after the Boulder Bash next Friday.

and more Hard

Still am very sore from last session...haven't had that much muscle ache for a long time! Went to V anway..did some swing overs on the systemwall,good for body tension...but hard, less of an angle maybe. Then concentrating on 2 problems...tried 1 on the Systemboard that is kind of possible and a old white downstairs...really felt body and fingers though so took it a bit easy. Then of course had to try another white where some surprising progress was made.

Hard Work

System work at K. First off with lock-offs to reach, then to hand-to-foot (which proved very hard due to too small holds and no power in the movement) to finish off with some openhand crimping at 50 degree overhang. Fun... but really hard work.

SM Kval Pictures

Test2

At Verket....2 problems on the Systemwall. The first I had more success on when I set it up a while ago, felt hard today. The second actually felt better..could be because my fingers and body took a while to get used to the problem style.

Then just did some fun bouldering .. flashed 3 black problems and close on an easier white problem.

Testing 1

Not much planned this week. Tests and taking it easy before the next block. Today was Deadhang testing on the fingerboard.. (hard to warm up for) as well as some weighted pull ups on slopers and lists.

Crimping

Todays aim was more vertical and crimpy. Went to K2 as there usually are few good problems like that on the upper level. Didn't count on there was a comp before and a lot of new problems but not that many on the crimp side. Found a few to play on and felt soon that crimping on small small lists was not my thing today. Sucked it up though and played with 5 problems that had those moves.

Bad Picture

As you can see not the best.. but had to take a picture of the training room. :-D

Klatreverket

Training in Oslo today. Not really what i expected/remembered. Small bouldering walls with lots of holds, but they seemed to have been up for a while and all problem are set up via different tape colours. Now I have liked that set up as it enables one to set problems on holds independent of colour and brand. However here problems were marked white,blue,green,yellow,red...etc. But not only were there one colour problems (few)but 2 coloured problems ie. red/yellow (load) basically making route finding not that fun at all. There were a lot of people there which made warming up hard. One good point was that there is free (loose) chalk all over to take..nice.
I really liked the training room set up.. free weights, finger boards, adjustable Rings (wire), adjustable hanging bar, adjustable ring systems to do core work, a campus board (not that good...Verkets rules), a moon boards (nice) and at last a adjustable system board (hoerst system and pusher holds).... Very nice for the ones that want to train hard!! Me like (picture will follow).
Ended up having a Campus session as planned... worked out so-so. Still felt the last session in my body.

New

Today the session was at Karbin..first off doing 1 foot bouldering on the steep wall, turned out to be harder then I thought. Then off to do some sloper problems...turns out that there were not that many there which I thought unusual. Also found that the 1 foot bouldering made things harder. Now off to Norway.

Hope

Went out to Orminge today. Fine day with ca. +3, sun and dry....well after a few tries it seemed that there was some moisture on the rock but not too much, just to wait a bit longer, brush and go. Otherwise felt like good stick ...did "Vänsterpack" and "Phatcat" as a warm up several times and it felt really good. Then over to work on "White Trash"...went a long time trying different beta with none feeling like it would work...so jump it was. Inbetween Miise turned up with his daughter, even though he ended up being the Boulderpolice it was fun to have him around. Then Stefan just tried a beta that he used a long time ago, actually did the move on the 2nd go...So it is possible!!

Even tried a bit on Wong Sai..also felt ok, even though a bit more moisture was on the rock. But more happy with some progress on "WT" at last!!!

Outside

2+ and dry...well it was a bit moist anyway...played a bit on a Nemisis...first move still feels like 1/50 chance ..actually could not do the 2nd move at all today...more training.

Campus

Been a long time since doing this. Warm up, maybe too short and too hard from the start? Then some Campus hangs (6sec); some dead hangs on slopers (hard to find slopers to train on at KV); back to campus with uneven hangs,up and up again (same hand)..extra 2kg..hard. Then tried some Tunnel to finish off.. but Campus took more than I thought. Finished of with some rings and weights for shoulders.

Halloween

Forgot to Post some Pumpkins we made on the weekend..

BM

Did a nice Fingerboard session this morning to start up with my new training plan :-D
Felt ok.
Had a thought about the Ringtraining that I have started with last week and if maybe the hard work my stomach has done has a influence on my climbing? Well, got some Rings from Erik to set up at home (thanks dude) so more pain is to be counted with..