1 Session - WT

with S was all it took in the end..and on the 3rd try WT was done. Felt edgy at first and during the Warm Up. The sun was not there yet to warm up the rock but had to try anyway and felt really good doing the problem that I thought would take a lot of work to do... Sweet. A Film below (sorry about the quality but the sun was not perfect, I was not thinking about filming and also need to get more into my video editing program...) ..next time will improve on angle and quality! Now some rest and then off to Chironico..hope the Weather will be with us..

Closer

Went to Orminge today with S. Took some time to warm up and did at first not feel that good at all..worked a bit atWT and did it the 1st half then the 2nd half, happy about the progress, but was missing out on the transition move. Then got visited by some other guys that were playing around on WongSai..and got tempted to try another beta again...to my surprise it felt soooo much better that way, shame that one was too tired, now feels that 1 or 2 Sessions more and it's mine :-)

Volume again

at K2 with Tomas did some volume on black problems..flashed some, did some after little work, worked on some others.. not much to write about.

System

Not much to say.. not the same power output I had last time.. Went to K and did a quick warm up as well as some stuff on the systemboard. Might be due to me starting off with the hay fever pills...those always drag me down.. :-( just waiting for the asthma to come back then as well. Two weeks to go before our trip.

Francos shelter

Had a long night and a lot of food so didn't really feel like training. However the weather was nice and T said it was nice outside (he was busy doing other things himself, E felt a bit sick).. so after a lot of if and when etc. I made a quick decision of going out to Balingsta to check out Francos shelter. Got there and was already tired just walking there. The problem was in the shade and had snow on almost all holds..specially on top...whats better than brushing and cleaning a problem for warm up? After said work started to work to top part and got the moves rather quick again. Then went and tried the middle part which took some more work as I forgot the beta as well as the one I think I had didn't work for me.. last try it suddenly worked. Decided to rest some 10minutes to give the start a try (the hardest part for me-only done it 2/3 times)..this time it went 1st try..though I went for my original beta for the moves and added one. After that had some tries which saw me doing the middle move but not getting it good enough. So some more rest, some food..and the next try saw me on top (now did the top part as B did). Very happy I rested more again and repeated it once more.. leaving I noticed that more snow was melting and some holds started to get wet..lucky me! Too tired to give the real Snakefarm a try.

Shorty

I had a plan, stuck to it and paid for it... went to K, where I haven't been for a while, warmed up with usual swings etc. plus 4,blue, 3 red, 3 black.. more or less without rest which resulted in a rather big pump and not really what I was out after. Then over to the systemboard to do 2x 3 problems around 3 moves then got a bit worried about a finger so called it a day. Mind you felt good to shorten the Session which was now around 1.5 hrs max.

Yesterday

Was a nice Day so we went out again. This time went to Dog Rock to have a look. Ended up doing all the easier problems there. "Lussekatten" was on the list but had a wet (running) start hold which was a shame. Tried "The Thing" as well, but even here the last two holds were soaking wet.. might upgrade it to 6c though. The sit start is very morpho as I discovered as even I could (just) reach the,current, start...shorter than 1.80 though will make it a much harder start. Started working on a another new line (also wet at the top) where I manged to do the first few moves..will be around the 6th grade. The block on which "Glöggparty" goes was also dry except for the top outs. All in all a fine day out..nice sun and good session to get the fingers/skin used to real rock again. Here a movie short of 2 problems done:

Working

or something is taking it's toll. Been super tired, restless, sleepless and a headache for a few days in a row now. Hope no infection is going on.. Went to K2 with T today to play on some more whites. Got pumped on the first one which is totally doable, then the next one felt like a long mans crux in the middle ..jumping to a small crimper is not my thing, tall people can reach; next one felt a little bit easier in the start but then hard! Specially watching a very strong guy having problems on it. Was going to finish off there but as usual could not resist to try a new white in the overhang, even this felt possible with a bit of work and fresher. Fun good session.

Hope

Went out to Orminge today, ended up being a few people there. Totally ok conditions for the outdoor premier of the year. Wanted to have a taste of WT again. First warming up:



The first few times felt rather cold...but after a few goes it was ok.
After the warm up went to try the move I have really hard for on WT..the heel! After a lot of tries I finally got it to work for the first time as well as repeat it. Fun, should go down this year as well.



Not from the start and not the end.. but he did it next go. Sun hits the problem at around 12 around this time of year (good to remember).

Also good was that my fingers felt much better taking on real rock.. more of this please!

More Black

Went to KV with T. Some new black problems...last session on blacks..ended with 4 black problems..tiered..over and out.

White

Today did a trail of picking some white problems and training power/strength. Did a nice little warm up and then got to work. Worked 4 white problems x4/5 goes each together with T. Certainly felt the work by the end of it.. but not pumped. Felt Good! Think the 1st white we tried is totally doable as well. Fingers felt fine as well until the last problem and the last 2 tries so we will see what tomorrow brings on that side.

On another note ..about 1 year ago I decided that maybe it was time to loose some weight. Took a bit of time to adjust some food intake etc. but now I seem to be stable at -10kg since then :-D Will it have an impact on my climbing? We will see... seems more like I have more finger problems now, but could be part of the adjustment?..