Testing 123

Fingerboard testing actually went better this time (I guess better warm up and starting with weighted Pull Ups helped a bit there)..so a check on improvement there I think.

On the systemboard problem side things looked better as well...at least on the first problem:

Silly miss on the last move, but progress. The second problem did not go as well.. seems very dependent on shoes and pressure on feet for the first two moves.

oh My!

X-mas did it.. felt heavy and my core did not respond that well either. Warmed up with some red problems before doing some 1 foot work on the systemwall. As it has been some time it took a while to remember the foot positions and the go-go juice was just not present.

Then over to do some sloper problems but again K was lacking in that area. Found a handfull but nothing really like I had in mind. In the end gave up due to lack of power and motivation.

First try with 1 foot and new (hard) shoes:

Fingers

Went for a session at K2 today with the aim of 5 fingery problems on the vert. Warm up with 9 red and 1 black problem ..then got to work. The problems T and I tried felt hard for their grade (black and white)... managed to flash one black though.

The last one we did downstairs...got a bit of a shock as all the new black problems felt way harder then the upper ones ... seems someone decided to add a bit of spice. Could also be that T and I were not in totally super shape but at least 2/3 moves should be possible on a black..

With that I will have a test/rest week again next week and then I only have 3 more weeks left of my original program...was it worth it? We will see next year I guess..but it sure worked my core and shoulders a lot. After this I have ca. 2 Months left before going on a climbing trip... meaning that I have to come up with a new short term plan for that time...think I will go with a bit of light progression training.

Campus

Over to KV again for some Campus. Warm up felt ok:ish but sluggish in the arms. The Main course was hard as well.. Friday and Sunday still sitting in my body I guess. Slight pain in left arm which made things a bit harder. First part went ok, appart from loosing grip due to the tape. Second part went ok I guess.. a bit powerless and too much pump. Took some weight off in the last set. The rest of the time was spent cheering on T and E(who looked strong). Finished off with some play on black problems before the Russian Twists.

T

for tiered... the warm up felt hard ..what would come next? I think that the encores on Friday took out some arm power for sure...things that were easy last time felt hard today. Today 4 problems a la 20min was on the list of things to do.

Mauro looked strong on the warm up and managed to do a black really quickly. Good Work.. T also impressed by flashing the first of the 4 problems (purple)...while I worked at it not getting the heel move at all..then worked on two blue(black) problems where one felt really hard and the other one should go down next time. Went down to work on a yellow(black) which I did last try. Had a quick go on another yellow(black) nearly did it 2nd go.. no power left.

Looking forward to some rest....

BM yesterday

Session in the Garage on the BM. Six different positions x6....first time in a long while I did this via Encores. Felt it big time in my arms....feels like this could be a thing to do more of (will look at this further).

This time warmed the garage with a heater as well as followed a tip from the net: sandpaper, then rub in slopers with chalk and lightly brush of excess chalk... this combined with a better warm up helped a bit.

Working at it

Lacking sleep as well sore from the campus session was maybe not the best combo. Did a bit of bouldering in the form of easy-medium-hard-medium-easy etc. Ended up with some red and black problems..the white ones I tried felt hard.

Feels like I had little to give in the shoulder,core and foot area... added a few core things on rings every day..not much but seems to have an impact, guess I will need to get used to it.

Campus

Slow warm up, then over to the campus..been a while. Felt stable with the deadhang workout...over to the sloper DH, if only there were some proper slopers. Then did the go-agains on the Campus plus little extra weight..good except that the last set felt really hard and need to tape the little fingers as my skin did not like the rungs today.

Finished off with some Russian Twists and stretching.

Test again

Well...time for testing again. To start off with on the BM...turns out that 7+ degrees does not help the friction on wood and that it took a until the end of the session before there was some stick. Really did not have the time for that and need to work out a better way to do things. As a result the hangs were worse than the pull ups.

Session 2 was testing the 2 set systemboard problems. Felt no push from my core and fingers still hurting. Problem 1: the 1st 2 moves just would not work out, but did good on the next 2 moves. Problem 2: Finally did the 1st move again, but not the 2nd... Core!!

Finished off with some red and black problems.

Music

can usually be used as a good way to get your mood up, your blood flowing and crushing. Well...today the music did not help as they insisted on playing jazz, Christmas songs etc. which really did not help at all... Only new problems to play on at Verket which the skin noticed as well. Everything felt hard ...my fingers and body have taken a beating it feels like..so a bit of rest is in order now. Thank you. Managed to do 2/3 black problems, close on some others...but that is beside the point at the moment. Problems will count later on :-D

Slopers

Todays Session involved 1 foot bouldering which showed that when using my right foot only I am much weaker. Then off to doing 3 Sloper problems.... and turns out that slopers are/were not my friends..felt hard. Did 2 of the 3 in the end..

Medium

Session today..had a tension headache all day long so tried to take it easy more or less. Did the lock-off training on a less overhanging wall which felt much better..easier I guess. The Hand-Foot training also was better this time...same angle as last time so a bit of progress I guess. As it turns out the system session was ok as well. Productive but a bit of a painful session.

Uurrgghhhyyy

Uff,,quick tempo session that felt harder then it should have. Tiered everywhere,need energy it felt like. Went for a 8-4-2 set up. Starting with the red problems.. it was already hard, over to black problems..had to bite the bullet there as well..over to white. Actually had a really good try on the white one in the hall..after which not much worked out... Stefan looks like he is in good shape! Will be nice to see new problems after the Boulder Bash next Friday.

and more Hard

Still am very sore from last session...haven't had that much muscle ache for a long time! Went to V anway..did some swing overs on the systemwall,good for body tension...but hard, less of an angle maybe. Then concentrating on 2 problems...tried 1 on the Systemboard that is kind of possible and a old white downstairs...really felt body and fingers though so took it a bit easy. Then of course had to try another white where some surprising progress was made.

Hard Work

System work at K. First off with lock-offs to reach, then to hand-to-foot (which proved very hard due to too small holds and no power in the movement) to finish off with some openhand crimping at 50 degree overhang. Fun... but really hard work.

SM Kval Pictures

Test2

At Verket....2 problems on the Systemwall. The first I had more success on when I set it up a while ago, felt hard today. The second actually felt better..could be because my fingers and body took a while to get used to the problem style.

Then just did some fun bouldering .. flashed 3 black problems and close on an easier white problem.

Testing 1

Not much planned this week. Tests and taking it easy before the next block. Today was Deadhang testing on the fingerboard.. (hard to warm up for) as well as some weighted pull ups on slopers and lists.

Crimping

Todays aim was more vertical and crimpy. Went to K2 as there usually are few good problems like that on the upper level. Didn't count on there was a comp before and a lot of new problems but not that many on the crimp side. Found a few to play on and felt soon that crimping on small small lists was not my thing today. Sucked it up though and played with 5 problems that had those moves.

Bad Picture

As you can see not the best.. but had to take a picture of the training room. :-D

Klatreverket

Training in Oslo today. Not really what i expected/remembered. Small bouldering walls with lots of holds, but they seemed to have been up for a while and all problem are set up via different tape colours. Now I have liked that set up as it enables one to set problems on holds independent of colour and brand. However here problems were marked white,blue,green,yellow,red...etc. But not only were there one colour problems (few)but 2 coloured problems ie. red/yellow (load) basically making route finding not that fun at all. There were a lot of people there which made warming up hard. One good point was that there is free (loose) chalk all over to take..nice.
I really liked the training room set up.. free weights, finger boards, adjustable Rings (wire), adjustable hanging bar, adjustable ring systems to do core work, a campus board (not that good...Verkets rules), a moon boards (nice) and at last a adjustable system board (hoerst system and pusher holds).... Very nice for the ones that want to train hard!! Me like (picture will follow).
Ended up having a Campus session as planned... worked out so-so. Still felt the last session in my body.

New

Today the session was at Karbin..first off doing 1 foot bouldering on the steep wall, turned out to be harder then I thought. Then off to do some sloper problems...turns out that there were not that many there which I thought unusual. Also found that the 1 foot bouldering made things harder. Now off to Norway.

Hope

Went out to Orminge today. Fine day with ca. +3, sun and dry....well after a few tries it seemed that there was some moisture on the rock but not too much, just to wait a bit longer, brush and go. Otherwise felt like good stick ...did "Vänsterpack" and "Phatcat" as a warm up several times and it felt really good. Then over to work on "White Trash"...went a long time trying different beta with none feeling like it would work...so jump it was. Inbetween Miise turned up with his daughter, even though he ended up being the Boulderpolice it was fun to have him around. Then Stefan just tried a beta that he used a long time ago, actually did the move on the 2nd go...So it is possible!!

Even tried a bit on Wong Sai..also felt ok, even though a bit more moisture was on the rock. But more happy with some progress on "WT" at last!!!

Outside

2+ and dry...well it was a bit moist anyway...played a bit on a Nemisis...first move still feels like 1/50 chance ..actually could not do the 2nd move at all today...more training.

Campus

Been a long time since doing this. Warm up, maybe too short and too hard from the start? Then some Campus hangs (6sec); some dead hangs on slopers (hard to find slopers to train on at KV); back to campus with uneven hangs,up and up again (same hand)..extra 2kg..hard. Then tried some Tunnel to finish off.. but Campus took more than I thought. Finished of with some rings and weights for shoulders.

Halloween

Forgot to Post some Pumpkins we made on the weekend..

BM

Did a nice Fingerboard session this morning to start up with my new training plan :-D
Felt ok.
Had a thought about the Ringtraining that I have started with last week and if maybe the hard work my stomach has done has a influence on my climbing? Well, got some Rings from Erik to set up at home (thanks dude) so more pain is to be counted with..

Quick

Session...no time really, as I am still feeling tiered and sore maybe that was for the best. Short warm up, play with some new black problems. Then some work on the bar/rings.

Mostly Tiered

Not much to say..K2..lower level...did all blue and red problems, then some weights for the shoulders. Could feel my stomach muscles all session long as well as my fingers... want to start a new program next week so got to careful.

Tiered fingers, mind and body

This time (yesterday) the playground was Verket. Did some warming up and found the fingers and body were not totally 100%. Went over to the main course which was 3 problems á 20min to work on. Was rather fun, need to learn to have better/longer breaks maybe. Then finishing off with weights (as by doc) and rings and 2x up the 6b in the tunnel and 1x 1/2 way on the 6c+ before the power gave out. Fun.

Fun Session

at K2, just doing random problems. We were a fun group and problems were done everywhere. Managed to flash 3 black problems and worked on some white ones. Found some nice white ones to work on as well. Felt limited though as I still could feel my fingers a great deal and still was sore in the upper body after the ring work last session.

Focus?

Really got to stop not doing things I did not plan for!...instead of doing a bit of a more laid back session mixing problems and longer rests it started of with a too short warm up and close to non stop tries on a lot of black and white problems before I realized my error...! Ended up flashing a new black and doing the 7a+ in the tunnel first try of today. Even played a bit with the rings and floor for some stomach action..felt really weak at those!

Work

short warm up,too short?, nearly flashed a green(black)..did it second go. Then some work on the systemboard. Set 2 new problems (red and blue tape) to work on..the red is supposed to similar to a problem in Chironico I would love to do next time there. Then worked out the moves on the 7a+ in the Tunnel, even though I had nothing to give it felt very doable when fresh.

Yesterday

Still taking care of myself. Had a short go at Dog Rock. Repeated most of the easy things as warm up..did a FA of "the Thing"..grade? felt really easy today..6b+ maybe 6c, but the sit start is egging me-hard! Noticed though that if one is tall one can reach the first hold of the "established start" which is a shame. Even did another FA called "Oddjob",6a, something to play on but so-so as one crux is not to touch a tree...Had some tries on Lussekatten,7B, but the 1st move is "ach" so hard...Furthermore brushed up another project which has athletic start and then goes over to technical then to fingery climbing..Did everything but the last 1/2 m ..the crux, felt hard, will see when fresh.

Easy does it - ?

Been a while.. first session for a while. Went to Karbin and did a few blue and red problems (felt ok) managed to flash a black problem as well as doing another black 2:nd go (think those were the easies there). Then did some stuff with Deadhangs and on the Campus board which felt ok. Finished the night off with some perscribed shoulder training with weights. All in all felt ok.

Toadstools

Well, it´s been a while. Never made it to Alvesta due to sickness of everyone including me. Thus no training for a while now as well (feeling the itch..). Instead of training went out on Sunday to search for some new rock to climb on.. the result after 3 hours was rather bleak though and I even managed to fall down ca. 2.5m and sprain my ankle! Great! Otherwise felt good.. however got a setback again last night with more fever and joint pains :-( ..thus no training this week either (I really hope all this rest will help my should pain though).
So instead of finding rock I went and took some pictures of the different Toadstools around (try and guess them).

uninspired

Training was uninspired today... had to stay over at work..lots of people at the gym and the wall I wanted to train on was very busy. Thus had to do the main training on the other walls which went so-so. Then when the wall was finally free I had not a lot to give anymore but stayed on to do some half hearted stuff. Think I will rest a while now ..going down to Alvesta tomorrow and might be touching some new blocks down there. We will see.

Some info

Went for a session today at K2 with the aim being easier things and static climbing! In the end did 13/14 red problems as well as 1 white. Close to 2 more white problems it felt like so all in all ok. Been doing more dead hangs as well as static technical training which I think can be very good for me.

Dog Rock + Been a while!

Some pics from Dog Rock. Above "Vänster och Höger Areten" ca. 6A
Below: "Bonde söker Fru" (green) ca. 6A+ and "Sallad Fingers" (red) ca. 6B then I forgot the project here: Standing Start (at the hight of the 3rd red dot, to the right)..hold on to the good pinch, maybe match, try find some thing higher and of to catch the sloper edge with a sloper topout..hard to grade...but felt very hard..

Below: "Lussekaten" ca. 7B

Project "Semlan" ca. 6B+/C but with propper sitt start ca. 7B maybe

Then a little behind these problem is another stone with "Glöggparty" ca. 7A (red) as well as a hard Project (green) around 7B/C maybe

There are more problems around on smaller areas which I might take pictures of next time if I remember where they are (Trevor knows). Plus I might have gotten some names wrong here..
Seems that none of the pix are sharp! Need to check my Camera I think :-(

As for me I have been resting for 2 weeks now (well cheating last Sunday where I went for a Picnic with the family here at Dog Rock.. tried only "lussekatten" did all from the 1st move, but the 1st move I find really hard. The shoulder (rotator cuffs) area feels a little better and I will now start off trying to do ca. 2 weeks of easy climbing..
We will see how that goes.

NK

Had a quick go at NK... found it rather humid, in the sun and wet from the rain before..(note:does not dry quick). After some hanging repeated Äcklet (red dots, without one hold which was drowning). Then worked on the left variant (orange dots)..basically one uses only the left hand sides and none of the right hold for either hands or feet (might weigh in about 6c+-7a it felt like), fell off the last hold trying to match due to a foot slipping off. Then a quick go at Rough&Ready sit (green holds), had done this easy the last time... had to work for it today.. did not do it.