System

Not much to say.. not the same power output I had last time.. Went to K and did a quick warm up as well as some stuff on the systemboard. Might be due to me starting off with the hay fever pills...those always drag me down.. :-( just waiting for the asthma to come back then as well. Two weeks to go before our trip.

Shorty

I had a plan, stuck to it and paid for it... went to K, where I haven't been for a while, warmed up with usual swings etc. plus 4,blue, 3 red, 3 black.. more or less without rest which resulted in a rather big pump and not really what I was out after. Then over to the systemboard to do 2x 3 problems around 3 moves then got a bit worried about a finger so called it a day. Mind you felt good to shorten the Session which was now around 1.5 hrs max.

Powerless?

Went to K by myself today. Took some time warming up, but maybe a little to soft? Then worked on some black problems. Did 5 black problems, some flash, in total and was close to 1 more while working 2 more that felt hard. Noticed that the 1st hour all feels ok but then fingers start to get a bit more sore as well as my core tension lets go. Furthermore the Mad Rock shoes seem to work fine on more vertical things but as soon as it gets more overhanging and technical they feel like 'clogs'.. very stiff and no feeling..might have to sand down some rubber on them...Some nice problems there.

ufff

Off to K with T..all new Problems to play on :-D Strange session.. already felt pumped after the warm up even though one just had a 2 day rest. Could feel the core workout from yesterday as well. Managed to do nearly all red problems as well as 1 black...all in all 24 problems. If I would have rested a bit longer in between problems would have managed at least 3/4 problems more..bad pump. Again some really fun problems (as well as some really bad..). Feels like the finger starts hurting around the 18 mark of problems. Off to Germany now with Zoe ..we will see if I will be climbing on Tuesday, might rest the finger until Thursday as the week after it's time to change from Volume to a bit harder..

more Volume

this time went to K with T...ended up doing ca. 20 problems inc. 2/3 black problems and most red problems. Around 11 in 60 minutes. Went through all the angles, slab to roof. Actually fun and seems like the pump is getting better.

Better

today then before even though I had less sleep and slight pain in one finger. The day ended with 4 black, 11 red and 3 blue problems... most done in 1 hour before I got to trying black problems.. Finished after 1.5 hours..

oh My!

X-mas did it.. felt heavy and my core did not respond that well either. Warmed up with some red problems before doing some 1 foot work on the systemwall. As it has been some time it took a while to remember the foot positions and the go-go juice was just not present.

Then over to do some sloper problems but again K was lacking in that area. Found a handfull but nothing really like I had in mind. In the end gave up due to lack of power and motivation.

First try with 1 foot and new (hard) shoes:

Slopers

Todays Session involved 1 foot bouldering which showed that when using my right foot only I am much weaker. Then off to doing 3 Sloper problems.... and turns out that slopers are/were not my friends..felt hard. Did 2 of the 3 in the end..

Medium

Session today..had a tension headache all day long so tried to take it easy more or less. Did the lock-off training on a less overhanging wall which felt much better..easier I guess. The Hand-Foot training also was better this time...same angle as last time so a bit of progress I guess. As it turns out the system session was ok as well. Productive but a bit of a painful session.

Hard Work

System work at K. First off with lock-offs to reach, then to hand-to-foot (which proved very hard due to too small holds and no power in the movement) to finish off with some openhand crimping at 50 degree overhang. Fun... but really hard work.

New

Today the session was at Karbin..first off doing 1 foot bouldering on the steep wall, turned out to be harder then I thought. Then off to do some sloper problems...turns out that there were not that many there which I thought unusual. Also found that the 1 foot bouldering made things harder. Now off to Norway.

Easy does it - ?

Been a while.. first session for a while. Went to Karbin and did a few blue and red problems (felt ok) managed to flash a black problem as well as doing another black 2:nd go (think those were the easies there). Then did some stuff with Deadhangs and on the Campus board which felt ok. Finished the night off with some perscribed shoulder training with weights. All in all felt ok.

uninspired

Training was uninspired today... had to stay over at work..lots of people at the gym and the wall I wanted to train on was very busy. Thus had to do the main training on the other walls which went so-so. Then when the wall was finally free I had not a lot to give anymore but stayed on to do some half hearted stuff. Think I will rest a while now ..going down to Alvesta tomorrow and might be touching some new blocks down there. We will see.

Too much Too soon

Is the question of the day. Did a maybe not so long warm up as I should have tried my first black and ....was sent back to reality..pain in the Lat. Not sure if it is what the physiotherapist thought it might be. Quickly stopped that and went over to the trainingwall in the box, ca. 35 degrees overhang. Seems static moves were not a problem... Little cool down and out. Will see how it feels tomorrow...

Hope

Went for an "easy" session to K yesterday.. met D and L there which was a surprise... apparently they got tiered of the lack of change at their usual Gym and so wanted to try something new. Did some easy stuff and as per usual when others are around had to try some harder things as well.. even up to a white problem which was totally possible.. so much for a testing session!!!! Warm there as well...but better then nothing! No good. Lucky then that at least my injured fingers feel much better today.. now just need to repair my Lat...

More or less as planned

Plan was to have a easy session with more moves ca. 5/10 and felt just like that I think..did not want to stress my fingers too much..thus 2x trv. a ca. 120 moves, one slow and the other more tempo. Over to Tunnel, did a 6c+ 2x nearly all the way..loose hold in the way, then tested a 7c as well..1/4 was good then crux 1 got it nearly..up to crux 2 with a long move from a strange old..did some more moves before the pump got too much; played on 2 black problems felt ok..tried to not do them! Over to another ca. 120 move trv....

Buhhh

Strange feeling all day, not sure what but body and soul not really with it. Maybe the warm weather, but never could muster up some real enjoyment. Warming up with most red problems on the lower level. Then over to campus and polymetrics..rested a bit more this time and went better. Warm down with a 2 red and a black. However have some issue with the back3 of the right hand.. not good.

No Go

Had hopes on having some goes on "Frankos" but the rain had other plans. Thus had a quick session at K. Did all blue problems on the lower level as warm up before going over to campus and Polymetrics (1 arm and double). Went ok'ish, lost power quickly though, guess longer rests are in order here...

Training light?

Temps these days are not fun! Warm in every Gym..went to Karbin. Plan was to do a session around 5.. felt like 6/7. Did all blue problems and some red, just a little hanging on some black problems--look like fun and maybe harder than KV and K2 black? 4 Campus goes and a long finishing traverse.

Power or not

Had a plan and managed to stick to it for all of 20minutes before traversing off to harder things..not good. It was fun, sort off, but kept thinking of what I should be doing..when I finally put that thought back into my head it was of course too late...