2009/12/20

Last time

Last session for today and maybe for the next month was at KC. Together with T and B started rather easy.. but allready after the 1st red I felt that my head was not with it and that my muscles and skin could use a longer rest. While everybody else made good progress on their problems I went to play a bit on my own, comming into the game first towards the end of the session. Ended up doing a rather easy (black) and flashed another (black) which was rather body intensive. Close to 1 or 2 other (black) problems...
We will see what the Internet is like down in Chile... if I get across some climbing I might just post it here.
Merry X-Mas and a Happy New Year to all my readers!
:-D

2009/12/17

At least it was fun

Tiered again from work, stressed maybe even stressed due to us leaving soon but my my brain and body just felt exhausted. Within 30min even my skin felt sore. Tried a few black and white problems but not much joy in those.... really looking forward to being able to sleep more than 5 hours as well as just relaxing my body....
Last session Sunday am...

2009/12/15

It's all in the head

Well..kind of. Felt good in the morning but then worse towards the afternoon. When I got to the Gym I head a raging headache which I thought would go over.. after my usual warm up and first try on the blue(white) I realised that the reverse was true and with that my mood went down; when I started telling myself how bad I was it was clear that the problem would not go down.
Now I know exactly what to do, I have done all moves several times and it doesn't feel like a white problem..but just couldn't put it together.. overall not a valuable session except to realise again how much is in the head (well power is a good thing to have). Headache is still there so hopefully with the help of pills it will go over soon.
Only 2 sessions left before my month off to Chile, where climbing I think will be out of the question..so the aim for the next 2 sessions.. try to have fun and leave on a good note.

2009/12/13

Fun Session

Went to KV this time to meet S there, everyone else was unavailable. Good warm up this time with 5min. trv. + stretching etc. Then over to do a day flash of a black problem. Some rest and work on some white problems. Got really close on the one(blue) I tried last time and feels like it should go down next time there. Even tried another one(purple) that seems possible. Went for another white(grey) where all seemed hopeless last time and made a little progress on that. Apart from that tried a 2 more white(purple and red) that I didn't seem to have too much chance on ...
Cool down 5min trv.
:-D

2009/12/09

Backstreet boy is back - kinda

Ok... finally feeling better again and had a session at KV with T. Went ok I thought. Warm up not optimal on some blue and red problems. Then over to try some black and white problems... maybe a bit early for first time back but what the heck got to challenge me - no? Flashed 2 black problems and did all moves on a white problem as best efforts..so not too bad. Finished off with 5min trv. which felt good as well..
Thats right new shoes.. Miura VS they were after the Apaches started to have the same bad glue issue as the 1st pair. These are more downturn and the rubber is still think and stiff. Felt rather good though and think it might be a rather good once broken in... time will tell.
:-D

2009/11/29

Mixed

Session at KC today... lot of new problems...soon felt that my body isn't at the top at the moment, still sick I guess.. fingers felt ok but not like I wanted to test them too much yet. So just hung around and tested the new blacks. Even not totally in shape and not a lot of strength it felt that the problems have gotten a tick harder or, like B said, too much black tape over..

2009/11/26

WhippingBalcony






Yeah.. autumn has come and winter is near... Got the possiblity to get access to this.. 3.70 wide, overhanging 62 degrees and 3.15 long...kickboard 67cm ... hmmmmmm.. would/could be a steep woody.

oh-ohhhhhh

Fingerboard in the morning again. Good warm up, felt ok... but then on hang 2 .. pain from right hand mid finger straight down towards the elbow..tested 2 more hangs but just didn't work out.. still painfull now :-( Not good it seems......

2009/11/24

Fingerboard

Due to lack of time this week its back to the Fingerboard. Been a long time and felt like one needs to get used to it a bit. Didn't help that my timer had a spasm after the first round.... sorted it all after a while and got on with it. Skin was sore after.

2009/11/22

Kids

Well.. seems like T was strong due to illness.. it is not too uncommon that one is strong before illness sets in.. then again I could be wrong ,-)
Went back to KV as I felt ok and was keen on the white problem from last session. Had a good warm up 5.3min trv then some easy problems from blue to black. Happy to do the black problem I tried with T last time 1st go today, amazing what a bit of rest can do! Then over to the white and did it on 3rd go.. could have done it before but had some issue with sweaty hands and nervousness at the crux. First white at KV :-D
Tried another new white under the Tunnel.. super nice and hard, possible to get to the Zone hold with some work and then gets very hard...cool! Something to work at..fingers, toehook, heelhook..what can you want more?
Had my watch with me today and mostly climbed alone, good rest periods.
1 arm hangs were just as last time, on the other hand managed to do 3 ring dips (not that good style)..
All in all ... looking ok. Next week will be hard to get some climbing time due to other things that need to be done after work.. so I guess it will be some BM sessions instead.
---------------------------------------
ps:OFF TOPIC ..Ah yes, the title...rather sick of kids at KV and now, I mean especially climbing parents with kids, where the parents are known people and have climbed for a while... why is it that some of them just can't tell their kids to NOT run/play under climbers, to NOT just climb/play where one is training, to just let them roam free without telling them to watch out and just let them kick balls on other people etc.!! Have seen this at other Gyms as well... but find that KV is not good at fixing this.. maybe an extra staff on the floor? Or is it that just because they are known people it doesn't matter? All parent when coming to climb should have to sign a paper stating that they WILL watch over/take care of their kids! Every time! I am a parent and aware of the implications but it can't be that hard?

2009/11/19

Mr. T

Was on fire tonight! I felt like a sack of potatoes next to him...Then again, here come the excuses, I haven't been feeling well (jumped over mondays session); stressing with my parent; stress at work and little sleep... a bit over 4.5 hours last night.
Anyway, it started all well for the warm up except maybe a little too pumped. Then flashed a new black???(more red..if), tried another new black which was much harder..after some beta searching for T. he managed to do it, I just pumped out.
Tried a new white, both got 1/2 way. Then over to a, again, new white..worked out all moves and was close..more technique then power it felt. And again after working out most of the beta..Mr.T snags it...I had no power left in me to try more, felt my little finger too much from crimping.
Then even on the 1 arm DH Mr.T impressed, last time we were close but now..
All in all a fun session. Next time with my watch to hold proper rest times and stick to 2 hrs. Good to know that at least one white at KV is doable (next time) so it's all good :-D

2009/11/14

Mixed feelings

Still feeling tiered abused and very sore from the Ring training... 5.3 min warm up. Big group..T,S,B, M, D etc. all new problems at KV. Fun red problems.. then do some black problems.. no power in my arms and shoulders though. Didn't try any white problems today..but seemed very hard. Finish of with some more rings and 1 arm DH's.
More...

2009/11/11

Fingers

With T at KV...on the Days menu: white problems. Due to KV comp on friday this became a little limited. 5.3min warm up trv. Then 3 white problems.. got to do a highpoint on one, on the next lost it all and never came up to my last highpoint. Then tried a "new" white which felt harder then all the other whites and quickly moved on to an open hand white where my power left me. Felt like a hard finger and core session... feeling it now! Managed to finish off with 1 Ring Dip and 5.3min trv.

2009/11/08

Red

At KV today with T. 5.3 min trv as warm up.. then over to all blue and after that all red problems. Finished of with 17.5 red problems out of 20..missed the last 2 and really didn't have that much more to give. Finished of with trying to do some ring dips.. very hard I found, then did some 5.3 min. trv. again. Nice session ::-D

2009/11/01

More Power

First via Orminge.. but of course it had to be wet outside.
Thus we went to KV and it was a big group there, fun. Started of easy with some trv. then some blue, red + 1 black problem. Then over to white problems. Got to a highpoint on the white I thought possible last time..only 3 moves left. The others I tried felt hard and fun, still feel Wednesdays session in my fingers. Maybe closer on some ...finally the easy week is here, feels like I need one.
:-D

2009/10/28

Powerpass

Session at KV today...lots of people again, warming up with S, doing some blue,red and one easy black problem. Then searching for some white problems.. found 3 nice looking ones and got to work. Problem 1.. long moves and small crimps, fun..hard, but could be possible. Problem 2.. looked possible at least 1/2 way and S made it look easy up to there..didn't seem to suit me..found every move hard. Problem 3 not my style either, overhanging, 5 moves, hard, full crimp and body tension..PG thought it was a good problem, then again it suits him and he ain't weak...fun!!
Little finger didn't seem to like the crimping too much though :-D

2009/10/25

Tired

Of to KC with a plan.. that I in the end didn´t go through with for several reasons. I was a bit apprehensive over my right hand fingers and how they felt so I took it rather easy on that side, a less pure power orientated session. Typical B warm up... hahahah.. then worked on some white problems. Had a few tries on a red (white) that felt rather fun and then got stuck on a black(white) with fun moves.. hard but fun! Finished off with some Footless bouldering. Taped my little and middlefinger and didn´t feel too bad. .. even afterwardsfelt ok.. we shall see next time :-D

2009/10/22

Tired and Hurt

Already felt tired warming up, no good 5 hours of sleep and lots of stress didn't help I guess + think I still feel the last session. This time at K again.. lots of people and alone which only helped me sticking to the rest time for the 1st time! Noticed early that there was something wrong/strange with my little finger (must have injured it somehow last time) :-( and in middle I managed to overstretch my right pec muscle as well..
Due to the situation at hand only tried 2 of the white problems from last time. Made the 1st move on one after some tries but could not repeat it. On the other I came closer to the 1st move and now could do the 2nd move.
Rest now and see how the finger feels next time.

2009/10/20

Fun

Interesting session at K with T. Longer warm up and then 3 white problems to try with ca. 3/4 tries each, rested. Went totally ok I think, a bit sour on one of my 3 as I seem to have read it totally wrong, but that is ok. Even the new shoes were more to my liking again... (maybe they only feel good at K??). Over and out.

2009/10/18

Better

At KC today and only new problems to try out :-D... ended up with trying all the black problems, again some felt easy some very hard for the color. Felt better then I thought it would be, having muscle ache like hell in my arms, stomach and back.... Lot of moves done (too many?)..ended up with doing two black problems (the easiest ones) close on some more.. Fun session! :-D

2009/10/14

- 1/2 suck -

ok..1:st impression at KV was -WOHA- lots of people, felt limited. The warm up was ok and the goal to do all red.. but not a lot red problems and not a lot of new red problems none that felt really fun either. Ditched my plan and tried the new black problems instead..I guess I should't have done that. Felt heavy and weak in arms, fingers and stomach.. this time had the will though and actually felt more at home with my new shoes which is a big plus (not sure though if C gave me a 1/2 size smaller..)
Well well... guess either start with short BM sesions or/and a rest (again) until Sunday?

2009/10/11

-suck-

Not much to say.. new shoes (none sticky rubber), no power, no will...

2009/10/08

Fun again

Today it was KC´s turn again. Felt a bit so-so due to a short night and scare as my daughter had a bit of an accident.. not to worry everything seems fine. So no Kindergarten for her today..
Felt ok in the start.. a little lack of power and concentration though. Worked on some new black and white problems.. and to my surprise must say that the blue(white) problem we worked on was the best we tested today in my books and that even though its slopers and pinches (something I don´t really go for...) but one should train ones weaknesses right???! Fun..
Felt a little too hurried again.. need to step down the tempo and just work a few problems at the time and NOT try everything ..
Peace :-D

2009/10/06

Better?

Started off the day with a morning session on the BM with some weights..went so-so.
Then finished off the day at K..slow start, but got into it and ended up doing 6 black problems and was close on 3 more. Felt much better than last time I was there, maybe due to me actually being able to place my Apache's better. However feels that there is some discrepancy between black and black and compared to KV maybe most on the easier side? But also here it feels that the white problems harder than the black ones by far...

2009/10/03

Pics of the Day




Tested a new Effect on these.. so-so result

Knarkarkvarten

Perfect Weather today! Good friction at the rock, then again it´s Orhem so the rock has a lot of friction (in respect to nice cristals...). Cool gang out that never had been there. Warmed up with "All I need" which felt ok. Then over to "Natterbjudande" which had a bit of scary top out and I think only S did it in the end. "Kalsongfjong" was up next.. don´t know where the grade came from but we thought is was not harder than "Natterbjudande" (even easier?) Had a few goes at "Karate Kid" got down to the first 2 moves being the crux.. the rest was not that hard. Think the first move is possible.. but felt the clear crux for me was the second move. Even tried the "un-named" left corner..but either we had no power left or couldn't read it too well but it felt hard for the grade...
All in all a nice day out in the woods :-D

Pics will follow...

2009/09/30

Oh Power, where art thou? (at KV)

well.. today not really present. Felt tiered and sickish in the warm up already and the red problems I had done previously felt hard now. T came as well and we stared to work on the black problems...everything felt hard, usually one can do more than one move but not today..all in all did a black (junior boulder)..red at it's best, close to another (last move) and another black onsight (again didn't feel black..).
Maybe the BM session on Monday or the new stomach training yesterday.
Next time :-D

2009/09/27

Källberga

A little trip out to Uppsala again this fine Autumn Day...

A bit of problem searching...


Even I got to try some, here on Sömnlös.. possible for sure, but hard on the skin.

Mr B doing Subway rather easy

More problem finding...



and a nice finish


2009/09/24

Karbin

There with Mr. T..forgot that it was Boulderbash tomorrow so due to that only the boulderblocks new problems were available...in the end did all red problems, some more tricky then others. Then went over to try the black problems, of course that was not so good.. a lot felt hard, maybe due to the red pump? In the end did none but 3 felt doable for sure! Tried a cool looking white yellow that seems doable as well..1 hard move on a left pinch..me not like. Pain in fingerjoints and right Biceps.. this was in the end not what I had planned for this week. Better discipline next time... !
Then again Mr. T said it was his fault that we went over to black... :)

2009/09/23

Indoors - KV

Well. it´s actually been some time since I have been indoors.. and well it was a so-so experience. First of all there were way too many people running around, it might have been due to Mr. Sharma visiting or that it was after work.. in autumn.. more people go indoors.
The days goal was to do all "red" problems.. got away with a good start, but again just rushing through things and got pumped rather quick. Jumped over the "red" mantel problems and got stuck on a problem that I should have done.. Furthermore I then digressed over to try some "black" problems... being pumped and not really on the menu for the night the results were as expected. Was missing Misse who never turned up...
As Mr. Sharma said later on .. it´s all about the Fun and Motivation.. :-D

2009/09/22

Me Like:

"Alla moven gjorde han i alla fall och har man gjort det kan man göra problemet, det gäller alla problem om man frågar mig..." read this on another blogg... me like! Do IT :-D

2009/09/20

WS again

Ok, this must have been the best conditions yet.. early in the morning! Then again it is my hands/fingers that are sweaty... what to do?
The usul warm up with "Phat Cat" and "Vänsterpartiet".. before going over to my current obsession.."Wong Sai".. think I can do the start easier now then before after some different Beta from S. Worked on the middle move I have had problems with the last 2 sessions.. after all kind of different set it prooved to be my original way works best for me and I actually did it that way as well.. So now I have my sequence, need to stick with it!! Felt my shoulders from last time a lot, especially the right one, lots of locking off on that side.. good with a little break now.
Even though S was there and we had 1 more pad the last 2 moves are for the moment a big ? for me.. just don`t get it really.. never got further than last time, today noticing that my feet come of when trying for the foot match..is there another way of doing that move?
Still feel I can do it.. more work needed but once I manage to link longer and figure out the end we are talking all systems go... go go :-D
Actually now that the temps are a bit lower I want to have another session with "Snakefarm",Ballingsta.. to see if I remember the moves and get a feel for it again. Mr. B do you remeber the upper sequence?

2009/09/16

Orminge...igen

Motivation was on top in the morning but towards the evening got lower and lower. Actually got there earlier then I though I would be which was good, as I don't know how long my lights will last. Temps were even lower, which is good (no blood suckers got me today), but either my hands are really sweaty all the time or it was rather humid...when is the best friction at this place???
Warmed up with "PhatCat", did it 4x with several variations as well as "Vänsterkonpiration". Then tried the crux of "White Trash" x3 but still seem to have no clue as how to do it...
Over to the Main Course: "Wong Sai"... what a line! Really want to do this problem. Tried the different moves and actually felt good on them. Now managed to do the move after the touchy heel to the sharp crimper 1st go and it felt ok. Even managed to go one move further to the left pinch..but as I was alone and only had 2 Pads I chickend out trying to do the last moves..
Then tried to link the moves.. best try was from start to the middle..I have my sequence now .. but found the move to the second sloper/crimp on the ramp with the left hand really hard today and just greased off every time and never really got to hold it as I wanted to.
The 2 lights are close to enough for the problem..1 more and the whole problem would be bathed in light.
All in all I think I can do this problem with better (skin)conditions a bit more stamina and a little portion of luck and umpfff :-D

2009/09/12

Focksta - Söderängarna

Off out of town to Focksta. First time there. Nice to have gotten a Guidebook.. rough granit, likely too warm to climb but was fun.. Warmed up on a Statistik(5B) which felt hard for the grade and the top out full of moss, then over to Jagad(6A+) which had the same problem, felt at bit easier then the 1st one. Then do Dumbo(6C) after a few tries, fun 1 move problem. Look at Candy Man(7A).. looks cool, but was in the sun. Over to Split Personality(6C/+) do this in 3 tries, cool overhanging crack that was very physical. Try Sister Vanilla(7A) and Gloria(7A) but felt way too warm in the sun to try. Do Fasans Makt(6B) after way too many tries.. getting tiered and sore skin. Try S-Man(7A) another 1 move wonder but what a move..felt really hard and B and I had no clue how to do it. Gave Vilse i pannkakan(7B) a try and think that I can do it..fun problem!! Presenten(7B) also looked nice but we couldn't work out the start and the last move is really!far! Well worth another visit I think! And next time I will not forget my Camera :-D

2009/09/10

Wong-Sai

Fun session today, still too warm, but better. Midpart felt slimy.. and again can´t remember the way I did it before ... what can one say?
S got better and better..while I just got more tiered. Worked the heel in the middle and did it as good as every time :-D
Then went for the next move to the sharp crimp.. took a while for me to figure out, and the move afterwards felt really hard. Point to S who did it from there to the top rather easy....
M came to have a talk, tried to have a go, against better judgment.. what can one say. Poor M, fun that he came out though... good effort! Thanks for the moral "support".. ;-D



2009/09/08

Bagarmossen

Little short trip there today.. forgot the anti-mozzy stuff and tape.. no good! Took 2 lamps today .. much better. Enough to carry on in the darkness, but more would be better. Felt good on the project, did the 1st 2 moves x2 but couldn't hold the swing..need to work out how to stop it. Tried the project left of it.. full crimps on small sharper holds and long inbetween.."only" 2/3 moves to the "home" hold..but hard!!!
FUN!

2009/09/07

Off Topic -Tattoo!




Bad pics from Baggis


No good these.. needed more time and planning but got too into trying the problems..


2009/09/03

Out and About

Went outside at Baggis last night.. 1st time after a "longer" rest and it felt ok.
To remember is that it´s time to take some lights with you when going out after work..(or try and go earlier..) otherwise the fun stops early. Also noteworthy is that the little flying pests are still at it and colder temps would be nice as well.
Overall not a lot got done by us, some of the warm ups, but none of the Projects went down. After working on the SW right extention project a bit I got excited and really want to give this a few more tries.. it will be hard but possible I think.. T´s and my project got a new possible solution from B.. but it felt long and harder for me, I believe more in my variant.. specially after nearly having done it that way twice. Now there are 3 possible ways of doing the crux move.. just choose the one that works for you.
Another problem is that the area isn´t frequented too often and next time I will need to take the ladder with me and do some brushing as a lot of it is all green again, can´t have that now can we
;-D

2009/08/31

Pic of moi

http://www.svd.se/ .... made it into the papers again... look 3/4 down.. something about the spikmatta.

2009/08/24

I feel

like a train drove over me.....

:-D

nice trailer here with some scary stuff...

2009/08/23

KC session again

As usual not feeling to sharp (weight 81,4kg)..I think it's time to give the body a bit of a rest usually on weekends I feel good due to not having worked/stressed.
Too fast a warm up again, feeling stressed for some reason with a quick pump working against me. Do 1 black, fall off another because I didn't see the last move :-( , thus going for a harder finish. Do a cool black?, that is unmarked, 2 hard moves for me; then finished up with my 1st white problem. After that felt rather tiered and didn't do much more, even jumped over my usual cool down.
Like the way I am going.
Now it's rest time for the body and get some new energy for further hard work...

2009/08/19

K session

Was not sure what I could do today, tiered from working etc. and a big crowd at K. Again I think the warmup might have been too short and the main part too long. Did 6 black problems of which 2 repeats and 4 new. Felt good to do these.. some cool problems there. Interresting that M. thinks I could do better if only I sorted out my head and climbed more relaxed as well as more sure that I can do it. The last part I am aware of and am trying to believe more that I can do it. Maybe now my training is paying off.... supposed to be in a peak at the moment. Maybe I am? Soon 2 weeks off to start again...

2009/08/17

day after review

Felt ok today (even though I slep bad), except for the stomach muscles.. something yesterday seemed to have forced me to use them! Me like!
Due to that I did a 20 minute session on the crosstrainer this morning, intervall style, and some SRT´s that worked my poor stomach even more.. all in the name of

2009/08/16

KC today

Still feeling sore from wednesday, feeling my right hip on the inside as well as my biceps on the right arm.
Again maybe not the perfect warmup.. some black problems felt really hard and closer to white..B. thought the same. Flash a black problem and did another after a few tries. Nice to be working some white problems as well. Did all moves of a white problem, should be able to link them as well..except the last move, neither B. nor I could work/figure it out. Finished off with some campusing on the overhang..haven't really done that before.. felt ok.
Been climbing in a light downturn shoe that is rather soft, starting to like that feeling, shame only that they have stretched so much that they feel slightly too big. Tiered and sore in my fingers as well as arms.

2009/08/15

Hm..

82.1kg ..still there..maybe more cardio needed?

2009/08/14

Albarracin








Chile

Rommel
Rommel
La Serena (spot the car)


Even some rope in La Serena

Trött?

Still feeling a bit sore after Wednesdays session at KV. I guess too little rest and a too high tempo, but was going for 6 black problems and did just that. But feeling it now.. Resting is good they say :-D. Next session will be on Sunday at K I think.. longt time since I have been there so we will see how that will go. Aiming for 4 black problems.....

Paradiset