More Black

Went to KV with T. Some new black problems...last session on blacks..ended with 4 black problems..tiered..over and out.

Testing again

Been resting for a week now..fingers still feel a bit but are much better now. The plan was to go to K with T but there it was closed (too early)...so ended up going to KV where B, E and K as well as R were :-D. Also there were a few new problems which was fun. After a good warm up managed to do 5 new black problems and close on 2 more. Fun session and fingers felt ok..until the last 10 minutes maybe. We will see how they will fair tomorrow.

Sending train

Went to KV today with T. After a slower warm up started to work on some black problems..fingers felt ok. After initial problems, head games, it started to feel ok. Managed to do 5(6) black problems two of which flash as well as trying some more. Felt that it was a bit too long a session and could have been longer rests in between. Ended off some easy trv. It was super nice to see Misse around again :-D

Bunny is back

After some Volume it was time for some more power..or black problems. Went to KV with T and E to look at the new problems there. Had the feeling of getting sick all day and worried about my fingers. Started off with a bunch of red problems which felt harder then they should have. Even the black problems felt hard. Of course had to go at it again and again... Need to STOP doing that. In the end managed 2 black problems and close on 2 more, think I will jump over one session to rest my fingers..worried about the trip.

close to the edge

of killing one finger it seems... rest two days now and see how it feels. Did ca. 15 Problems today again... all but one red and one black flash. Next session needs to be a more relaxed one for my fingers, so no trying black or white problems (unless finger feels up for it).

Trails

Felt hard again today..still missing endurance as well as that little bit of something...strength wise. Also still don't feel 100% yet. Worked on 2 white problems, did 2 new black problems (worked 5 more), 7 red problems and 3 blue... actually thinking of 4x4 sometimes a week...just need to find the right problems to do... we will see.

Testing 123

Fingerboard testing actually went better this time (I guess better warm up and starting with weighted Pull Ups helped a bit there)..so a check on improvement there I think.

On the systemboard problem side things looked better as well...at least on the first problem:

Silly miss on the last move, but progress. The second problem did not go as well.. seems very dependent on shoes and pressure on feet for the first two moves.

Campus

Over to KV again for some Campus. Warm up felt ok:ish but sluggish in the arms. The Main course was hard as well.. Friday and Sunday still sitting in my body I guess. Slight pain in left arm which made things a bit harder. First part went ok, appart from loosing grip due to the tape. Second part went ok I guess.. a bit powerless and too much pump. Took some weight off in the last set. The rest of the time was spent cheering on T and E(who looked strong). Finished off with some play on black problems before the Russian Twists.

Campus

Slow warm up, then over to the campus..been a while. Felt stable with the deadhang workout...over to the sloper DH, if only there were some proper slopers. Then did the go-agains on the Campus plus little extra weight..good except that the last set felt really hard and need to tape the little fingers as my skin did not like the rungs today.

Finished off with some Russian Twists and stretching.

Test again

Well...time for testing again. To start off with on the BM...turns out that 7+ degrees does not help the friction on wood and that it took a until the end of the session before there was some stick. Really did not have the time for that and need to work out a better way to do things. As a result the hangs were worse than the pull ups.

Session 2 was testing the 2 set systemboard problems. Felt no push from my core and fingers still hurting. Problem 1: the 1st 2 moves just would not work out, but did good on the next 2 moves. Problem 2: Finally did the 1st move again, but not the 2nd... Core!!

Finished off with some red and black problems.

Uurrgghhhyyy

Uff,,quick tempo session that felt harder then it should have. Tiered everywhere,need energy it felt like. Went for a 8-4-2 set up. Starting with the red problems.. it was already hard, over to black problems..had to bite the bullet there as well..over to white. Actually had a really good try on the white one in the hall..after which not much worked out... Stefan looks like he is in good shape! Will be nice to see new problems after the Boulder Bash next Friday.

and more Hard

Still am very sore from last session...haven't had that much muscle ache for a long time! Went to V anway..did some swing overs on the systemwall,good for body tension...but hard, less of an angle maybe. Then concentrating on 2 problems...tried 1 on the Systemboard that is kind of possible and a old white downstairs...really felt body and fingers though so took it a bit easy. Then of course had to try another white where some surprising progress was made.

Test2

At Verket....2 problems on the Systemwall. The first I had more success on when I set it up a while ago, felt hard today. The second actually felt better..could be because my fingers and body took a while to get used to the problem style.

Then just did some fun bouldering .. flashed 3 black problems and close on an easier white problem.

Campus

Been a long time since doing this. Warm up, maybe too short and too hard from the start? Then some Campus hangs (6sec); some dead hangs on slopers (hard to find slopers to train on at KV); back to campus with uneven hangs,up and up again (same hand)..extra 2kg..hard. Then tried some Tunnel to finish off.. but Campus took more than I thought. Finished of with some rings and weights for shoulders.

Quick

Session...no time really, as I am still feeling tiered and sore maybe that was for the best. Short warm up, play with some new black problems. Then some work on the bar/rings.

Tiered fingers, mind and body

This time (yesterday) the playground was Verket. Did some warming up and found the fingers and body were not totally 100%. Went over to the main course which was 3 problems á 20min to work on. Was rather fun, need to learn to have better/longer breaks maybe. Then finishing off with weights (as by doc) and rings and 2x up the 6b in the tunnel and 1x 1/2 way on the 6c+ before the power gave out. Fun.

Focus?

Really got to stop not doing things I did not plan for!...instead of doing a bit of a more laid back session mixing problems and longer rests it started of with a too short warm up and close to non stop tries on a lot of black and white problems before I realized my error...! Ended up flashing a new black and doing the 7a+ in the tunnel first try of today. Even played a bit with the rings and floor for some stomach action..felt really weak at those!

Tunnel

Worked out in the Tunnel again.. long 20 move problems.. did the 6b+ x2 the 7a+ x2 worked the 7b+ but got more interested in the 7c or 7c+ that felt much more fun to do/try. Semi flashed a easy black problem (1st move felt bad for shoulder) as well as on a white problem.(skipped 1st 2 moves and last move was not sure about the shoulder). Happy with the session even though I felt my shoulder and will try and go and see someone about it this week.

more Trails...

Went training again.. just to see how it felt. Tried nothing drastic last night and kept it so that I stopped as soon as I felt something. Had some fun company with Misse, his cousin and Tomas. Did a few red problem then went over to the tunnel trying the 7a+ there and realising that the only thing lacking from doing it is PUMP.. otherwise no really hard moves there. Tried the 7b+ there as well but T and I got shut down somewhere in the middle..small pinches, overhanging and bad feet apparently does not like us.. Fun what so ever... ended up doing laps on the 6b+ there. All in all ok.. have a slight pain now the day after.. but feel like I did not really over do it.

Trail and ERROR

Ok.. went to KV again .. this time to see where my limits were injury wise (smart or not). Had a rather ok session doing 8 black problems, really close on more, as well as 2x up the Tunnel. However it seems that there has been little activity around getting new problems up (some problems must be 2 months old...). Then there is a feeling that the black problems here might be more on the easier side when compared to the other local gyms. Not having been to the other gyms and tried the same set up, so to say, but I really wonder if one could do that many in a day in the other gyms....
Back to the main point, my fingers are feeling much better again and it seems that soon I can start to try pulling harder again. The left Latissimus was however not feeling too well.. specially could feel it on two problems I tried where it was rather painful.. so we will see. I do use TENSE on it every night now and will be off a couple of days (might be able to do some light Rope(!) work done on Sunday) and back on Tuesday next week .. that was my Summer Holiday.