2010/05/30

Getting closer

Had a good session with T today. Sceptical about my form and the weather...would "Frankos shelter" hold up..would my shoulder and finger? As it turned out ..yes they would..and all went better the ever. Did moves 3-5 (finish) for the 1st time now. Then also managed to find a better foot position to do the 2nd move. Linked move 2-4 as well..falling on the last. T managed then to repeat my version of "Snakefarm" agrees with the grade around 7a+. Then went for a ground up try.. fucked up on the transition from move 2-3 (more like surprised myself that I came that far). Next time will go for ground up tries..feels that I am closing in on it. Interesting to see that T thought the 2nd move was the easiest.. might be his length?
Then went over to look at "Mammoth" 7a+ again, actually worked out the start now, thx T, then managed to work all up to the "scary" top out on slab.. doable! GOOD Time!!

2010/05/27

Medium Session

was the plan...not much stress...5 min rest between each problem. Warm up with a few blue and red problems then over to the main part..ended up doing 10 black problems, some repeats, some new ones,flash, and others after a few tries. Maybe a bit harder then I planned but felt ok over and all like not too much..7/10

2010/05/25

No Go


Had hopes on having some goes on "Frankos" but the rain had other plans. Thus had a quick session at K. Did all blue problems on the lower level as warm up before going over to campus and Polymetrics (1 arm and double). Went ok'ish, lost power quickly though, guess longer rests are in order here...

2010/05/23

Good Session

At K2. Met up with B and didn't have too high hopes due to the silly pollen season taking it's toll on my body and soul. Ended up with a rather good session though. Around 5 black problems flashed, 1 white problem flashed and close on 2 more white problems.. as usual though when training with B..ends up more of a Power-Endurance session..Happy with the result! Was to be a session around 8/10 and ended up being a 9/10 mostly due to the nr of problems tried..

2010/05/21

Training light?

Temps these days are not fun! Warm in every Gym..went to Karbin. Plan was to do a session around 5.. felt like 6/7. Did all blue problems and some red, just a little hanging on some black problems--look like fun and maybe harder than KV and K2 black? 4 Campus goes and a long finishing traverse.

2010/05/19

Training in

there we are again..this time went to K2, lots of people there. Plan was to do a session around about 5/6 out of 10...didn't really get to do that, felt more like a 7 in the end. But felt ok anyway. Did some red and blue problems and flashed some black ones. Warm in there as well, in the end was too pumped to do anything more...fun session

2010/05/15

Krokviken, Sundsvall


Quick look there after a dissapointing try to go train at Sundsvall Klätterklubb. Did some nice 6a/b problems and looked at some 7b's..too short time, wet rock and warm sun didn't help on the slopers though...fun.

2010/05/11

There again


After some quick thinking & new options ended up going to...Balingsta once again. Mr T went along and sent 2 of 5 problems fast. He got close on "Snakefarm" as well and we concluded that my way should be around 7a+ like. I finaly got all of the right beta for me on "Francos shelter",missed a now obvious move in the start. Ended up doing all moves,now need to link them. Totally possible this problem!

2010/05/08

Inside


Met up with M,T and L at KV. Was to be a medium session that ended up with flashing and quick ascends of the new black problems as well as some tries on 2 white problems...Fun. Went surprisingly well for all where L flashed a black problem and M did the best performance with fighting spirit on a black, by batteling through the 2nd half of the problem and seeing it off to the finish. Nice session with no pressure

2010/05/05

I did something

Well, had to go to Balingsta again....to try "Snakefarm"..and in the end even managed to do it. Feels technical and worked my core and shoulders as well, fun problem, liked working it. Not sure how the FA was done but the way I worked out the moves is the easiest way up ... Tried "Francos shelter" after and managed to hang the start and close to the first move (got my usual calf cramp), think move 1 + 2 are doable, then it looks like a hard long move, the next move I did as well and then 2 moves left to the top...me like...might have to spend some more time here.

2010/05/02

A cunning Plan

Again in Balingsta. Looked at & brushed up "Mammoth"; scary topout when alone & could get how the 3rd move went. Over to "Snakefarm"..tried my plan & it worked! Had 2 super close tries on it,should have done it, before magically I couldnt do 1 singel move and after it was much warmer then even my feet would not stick anymore. Shame that I am not sure if I am doing it right,ie if there are eliminates..otherwise it would be a variant,but its the easiest way up. Even tried "Francos Shelter" and liked it..sharp holds..

2010/05/01

Pix from Tomas, Chironico


Moritz on a 6c


Moritz on a 7a


Moritz in the snow


Moritz on "Bella Nicki"


Moritz on "Comfort Boulder"

Got some pix from Tomas.. so played with some of them with this result.. enjoy!