2011/03/28

1 Session - WT

with S was all it took in the end..and on the 3rd try WT was done. Felt edgy at first and during the Warm Up. The sun was not there yet to warm up the rock but had to try anyway and felt really good doing the problem that I thought would take a lot of work to do... Sweet. A Film below (sorry about the quality but the sun was not perfect, I was not thinking about filming and also need to get more into my video editing program...) ..next time will improve on angle and quality! Now some rest and then off to Chironico..hope the Weather will be with us..


2011/03/26

Closer

Went to Orminge today with S. Took some time to warm up and did at first not feel that good at all..worked a bit atWT and did it the 1st half then the 2nd half, happy about the progress, but was missing out on the transition move. Then got visited by some other guys that were playing around on WongSai..and got tempted to try another beta again...to my surprise it felt soooo much better that way, shame that one was too tired, now feels that 1 or 2 Sessions more and it's mine :-)

2011/03/24

Volume again

at K2 with Tomas did some volume on black problems..flashed some, did some after little work, worked on some others.. not much to write about.

2011/03/22

System

Not much to say.. not the same power output I had last time.. Went to K and did a quick warm up as well as some stuff on the systemboard. Might be due to me starting off with the hay fever pills...those always drag me down.. :-( just waiting for the asthma to come back then as well. Two weeks to go before our trip.

2011/03/19

Francos shelter


Had a long night and a lot of food so didn't really feel like training. However the weather was nice and T said it was nice outside (he was busy doing other things himself, E felt a bit sick).. so after a lot of if and when etc. I made a quick decision of going out to Balingsta to check out Francos shelter. Got there and was already tired just walking there. The problem was in the shade and had snow on almost all holds..specially on top...whats better than brushing and cleaning a problem for warm up? After said work started to work to top part and got the moves rather quick again. Then went and tried the middle part which took some more work as I forgot the beta as well as the one I think I had didn't work for me.. last try it suddenly worked. Decided to rest some 10minutes to give the start a try (the hardest part for me-only done it 2/3 times)..this time it went 1st try..though I went for my original beta for the moves and added one. After that had some tries which saw me doing the middle move but not getting it good enough. So some more rest, some food..and the next try saw me on top (now did the top part as B did). Very happy I rested more again and repeated it once more.. leaving I noticed that more snow was melting and some holds started to get wet..lucky me! Too tired to give the real Snakefarm a try.

2011/03/17

Shorty

I had a plan, stuck to it and paid for it... went to K, where I haven't been for a while, warmed up with usual swings etc. plus 4,blue, 3 red, 3 black.. more or less without rest which resulted in a rather big pump and not really what I was out after. Then over to the systemboard to do 2x 3 problems around 3 moves then got a bit worried about a finger so called it a day. Mind you felt good to shorten the Session which was now around 1.5 hrs max.

2011/03/13

Yesterday

Was a nice Day so we went out again. This time went to Dog Rock to have a look. Ended up doing all the easier problems there. "Lussekatten" was on the list but had a wet (running) start hold which was a shame. Tried "The Thing" as well, but even here the last two holds were soaking wet.. might upgrade it to 6c though. The sit start is very morpho as I discovered as even I could (just) reach the,current, start...shorter than 1.80 though will make it a much harder start. Started working on a another new line (also wet at the top) where I manged to do the first few moves..will be around the 6th grade. The block on which "Glöggparty" goes was also dry except for the top outs. All in all a fine day out..nice sun and good session to get the fingers/skin used to real rock again. Here a movie short of 2 problems done: