Motivation was on top in the morning but towards the evening got lower and lower. Actually got there earlier then I though I would be which was good, as I don't know how long my lights will last. Temps were even lower, which is good (no blood suckers got me today), but either my hands are really sweaty all the time or it was rather humid...when is the best friction at this place???
Warmed up with "PhatCat", did it 4x with several variations as well as "Vänsterkonpiration". Then tried the crux of "White Trash" x3 but still seem to have no clue as how to do it...
Over to the Main Course: "Wong Sai"... what a line! Really want to do this problem. Tried the different moves and actually felt good on them. Now managed to do the move after the touchy heel to the sharp crimper 1st go and it felt ok. Even managed to go one move further to the left pinch..but as I was alone and only had 2 Pads I chickend out trying to do the last moves..
Then tried to link the moves.. best try was from start to the middle..I have my sequence now .. but found the move to the second sloper/crimp on the ramp with the left hand really hard today and just greased off every time and never really got to hold it as I wanted to.
The 2 lights are close to enough for the problem..1 more and the whole problem would be bathed in light.
All in all I think I can do this problem with better (skin)conditions a bit more stamina and a little portion of luck and umpfff :-D
I think you would benefit from people screaming at you. It seemed to work quite well last time.
ReplyDeleteNja.. doesn't help my super sweating hands! Not that I think that they are in general.. just when I start climbing they seem to get worse..maybe the excitement ;-D
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